REI Community
East Gate Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ankle Biters S 
Blood Drive T 
Bloodline T 
Bloodsport T 
Cabeza de Pollo T 
Christopher of the Everglades T 
Clay, Like Dirt S 
El Chollo T 
El Guapo T,S 
El Pipe Dream T 
El Segundo T 
Flakes, The T 
Gran Hermano T 
Keelhaul T 
Narrow Horizons T 
Negro Modelo T 
Only Human Var. T 
Plasma T 
Purple Horizons T 
Ripping Wall, The T 
Sidekick T 
Sidewinder T 
Snowflakes T 
Speed Of Life T 
Stradler T 
To Air is Human T 
Wild Things T 
Unsorted Routes:


YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b PG13 [details]
FA: Drew Bedford-1986?
Season: cold mornings, or warm evenings
Page Views: 2,112
Submitted By: bheller on Nov 9, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: bloodline

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


This is a fairly sustained route, but the crux is right above the second knifeblade. After you execute the crux you must climb a few feet above above the extruding knifeblade before you can get in reliable gear. I think the pins are solid, but you do risk falling onto them, hence the PG-13 rating. The climbing sequences are tip-top. At times the cams impede the jams, so I found I had to climb through some sequences and place my gear below me.
At 2/3rds height, clip the bolt (new) and do the ninja move left to the right facing flake. Layback, romp up, and finish the low-angled slab to clip the chains. It is a little hard to communicate with your belayer from the top, so consider rappelling. Also, the climb is rated 12b in the Wasatch Guide, but I feel it likely warrants 12c.


The obvious right leaning fingercrack that starts off the ledge/pillar, and sports the 2 knifeblades. 2/3rds the way up on the East Gate buttress wall.


small nuts, draws, tips to off-fingers cams with one handsized unit. Lower off chains at top

Photos of Bloodline Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: This line kicked my ass.
This line kicked my ass.
Rock Climbing Photo: The line from the trail
BETA PHOTO: The line from the trail

Comments on Bloodline Add Comment
Show which comments
By drewford
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Jan 14, 2011
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

The original route ended at slings around a horn at the end of the crack. A few years later I repeated the route and noticed the flakes out left. I added one bolt and a belay that extended the route another 30 or 40 feet.

I don't see the need for a PG rating. The gear is there. Perhaps not simple to place, but it's there.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About