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Bloodhound 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Dave Pegg, 2009
Page Views: 779
Submitted By: Michael Schneiter on Sep 12, 2011

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To the rim!

Description 

Bloodhound is a long, quality extension to Road to Nowhere, a often neglected 11a in Rifle. It features hard, technical climbing and a burly finish through a roof.

After climbing Road to Nowhere, continue above the anchor on relatively easy ground for a few bolts on excellent stone that is beautifully featured limestone. After clipping a bolt on a rounded arete feature, you start to enter a series of crux moves that doesn't stop for a few bolts with scant rests. Make a difficult move left around the arete to a good stance before firing through a difficult undercling section, moving right on difficult feet. Move up on good holds while fighting the pump through a "hollow" feature where a perma-draw is located to a series of rails. Lock off on the upper, slanted rail to two tiny crimps and a hard move to the right where a large jug is found. Rest before the final roof where underclings, a couple of sweet pockets and some big moves are found. A nice knee bar is found to help clip the anchors.

A 70 meter rope is required.

Location 

This is the extension to Road to Nowhere, an 11a that is about 30 yards to the right of the Plastic Prince "mini-cave" routes.

Protection 

16 bolts with one perma-draw plus the anchor.


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By Kaylene Grove
Aug 16, 2016

CONDITION REPORT 
Aug. 14, 2016, use caution re: pre-hung draws on this route. We were told that they had been up there for ~3yrs! The story was that the person who hung the draws hadn't been back (or wasn't climbing much anymore) and left the draws. They do look a little weathered and the webbing is stiff.

Great route with a crux for every type of climber. Technical, balance-y, powerful, and a couple of reachy moves. Goes into the shade (in mid-Aug.) ~3:30pm.
By Taylor Roy
From: Midvale, UT
Apr 29, 2013
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Nice route, Dave!
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Oct 26, 2015

Fantastic route. More people should get on it. I think it's a reasonable onsight at the grade, because there is a lot of opportunity to hang out, test out holds, downclimb to stances, etc.

There were draws on it this weekend, so it's a great time to try out this awesome new addition.