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To the rim!
Bloodhound is a long, quality extension to Road to Nowhere
, a often neglected 11a in Rifle. It features hard, technical climbing and a burly finish through a roof.
After climbing Road to Nowhere
, continue above the anchor on relatively easy ground for a few bolts on excellent stone that is beautifully featured limestone. After clipping a bolt on a rounded arete feature, you start to enter a series of crux moves that doesn't stop for a few bolts with scant rests. Make a difficult move left around the arete to a good stance before firing through a difficult undercling section, moving right on difficult feet. Move up on good holds while fighting the pump through a "hollow" feature where a perma-draw is located to a series of rails. Lock off on the upper, slanted rail to two tiny crimps and a hard move to the right where a large jug is found. Rest before the final roof where underclings, a couple of sweet pockets and some big moves are found. A nice knee bar is found to help clip the anchors.
A 70 meter rope is required.
16 bolts with one perma-draw plus the anchor.
By Taylor Roy
From: Midvale, UT
Apr 29, 2013
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Nice route, Dave!
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Oct 26, 2015
Fantastic route. More people should get on it. I think it's a reasonable onsight at the grade, because there is a lot of opportunity to hang out, test out holds, downclimb to stances, etc.
There were draws on it this weekend, so it's a great time to try out this awesome new addition.