REI Community
West Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
411 Southwest T 
A Bridge Too Far T 
Astro Glide S 
Avalon T 
Billie Bear Cranks the Rad T 
Bloodguard T 
Blotter is my Spotter T 
Brokedown Palace T 
Burning Down the House T 
Buster Cattlefield T 
California Dreaming T 
Carl's Face S 
Carol's Crack T 
Dead Point T 
Deadwood Express 
Deli Express T 
Digital Extraction T 
Double Feature T 
El Matador T 
Fractal T 
Harkness variation T 
Jerry's Kids T 
La Vaca Solitaria T 
Lack of Enthusiasm S 
Livin' the Dream T 
Man Without a Planet T 
McCarthy West Face (Variant) T 
McCarthy West Face/Hong T 
Mr. Clean T 
Mystery Express S 
No Holds for Bonzo T 
One Way Sunset T 
Park Politics T 
Scottfree T 
Some Like it Hot T 
Spank The Monkey T 
Steal Away S 
Tulgey Wood T 
Up In Smoke T 
Way Layed T 
Wrong Way (direct start to One Way Sunset) T 


YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: FA (as "Non-Dairy Creamer" III 5.8 A3): Chris Ballinger, Jim Lynch, & Frank Sanders - 10/12/1977
FFA: Skinner, Wald, Cowan, & Piana - 7/19/1984
Page Views: 4,101
Submitted By: Joe Collins on Sep 2, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Kevin Cooper on a glorious TR of Bloodguard, and N...

June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


This may very well be one of the best hard finger cracks in North America. Rated anywhere between 11c to 12a in the various guidebooks I've seen, I'll post it as 11+. Even then, it feels like somewhat of a testpiece at hard-5.11.

Begin just to the left of the starts to Jerry's Kids and Avalon (just left of the pentagonal roof at mid-height in the picture below) . Scramble up to the finger crack which becomes increasingly difficult with height. A long rope stretcher pitch with the last 15 foot crux section consisting of desperate tips jamming and/or offset liebacking.


Lots and lots of small to medium stoppers and small cams

Photos of Bloodguard Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Taken June, 2000
BETA PHOTO: Taken June, 2000
Rock Climbing Photo: The bottom portion of Bloodguard.  The best finger...
The bottom portion of Bloodguard. The best finger...
Rock Climbing Photo: Cooper and Dubois recovering their rope from a poi...
Cooper and Dubois recovering their rope from a poi...

Comments on Bloodguard Add Comment
Show which comments
By jason seaver
From: Estes Park, CO
Aug 29, 2006

I agree with Joe, this is one of the best fingercracks anywhere. Long and immaculate with the crux coming in the last 20 feet.
By Jeff G.
From: Fort Collins
May 23, 2009
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

One of the best pitches on the Tower. Incredible the entire 160 feet. The last 20 feet are desperate!
By Lucas Barth
From: Devils Tower, WY
Sep 16, 2016

Anchor was replaced by Taylor Lais and Cali Terveen on 10/22/16.

Great route and a good one to go for! Don't be scared of the grade. Most of the route is 5.10 climbing and it protects great. Get on it!

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About