|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 170'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]|
|FA:||Jeff Thomas and Robert McGown, 1977|
|Submitted By:||peachy spohn on Jul 24, 2013|
|Beacon Rock is open from July 15, 2016 through February 1st, 2017. See note for more details. MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Blood, Sweat, and Smears||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
Oct 9, 2015
|Very appropriate name for this route, I was certainly doing all three. If you could work "calf pump" into the name somewhere it'd be spot on. I found Matt's description accurate. Lots of lichen but the climbing is actually fantastic. I ran out of appropriate sized gear in the middle section before the hands section at the top so it felt a little more strenuous/spicy than it should have. A few extra finger sized pieces like .3-.5 BD should do the trick. In addition to the rack suggestion, I was also able to drop in some #2 and #3 BD's, especially toward the top. 3's are probably not super necessary but I was happy to have one. Keep in mind it's a longish pitch at about 165 feet with smallish tinkery gear to fingers to hands at the top. If this gets cleaned up I'd agree it will be a total classic.|
By Stephen Sh
Sep 6, 2016
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blood Sweat and Smears is one of my favorite Beacon routes, but as the description notes and ahparker confirmed, in recent years it’s been dirty, overgrown and furry with grey lichen. Not so encouraging. Last weekend BSS got a long deserved cleaning. We pruned out the shrubbery down to the roots, gardened out the grasses and blackberries, and brushed the grey lichen off of the smears. BSS is now more protectable with the crack cleaned out and more climbable with positive smears.
My gear for the route - doubles in BD Camalots 0.3 to 1, a single #2, small to medium stoppers, tricams 0.25 to 1, and some additional thin finger to finger sizes in 3-cam units (Metolius and BD). A fixed pin 10’ from the belay protects the first difficult moves until you can get good gear in. The crack starts as a thin seam and slowly increases in size from thin fingers thru hands over the course of 50 meters. It’s a 50m rap from the BBS anchors down to the Reasonable Richard anchors.
We also cleaned up the approach pitch to BSS – Reasonable Richard (5.9, 40 meters). RR had become overgrown with a thick carpet of moss, blackberries and shrubs. We cleaned it and excavated cracks for slotting gear and a couple of fixed pins from under the moss carpet. It is now quite reasonable.