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Blood, Sweat, and Smears 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 170'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Jeff Thomas and Robert McGown, 1977
Page Views: 784
Submitted By: peachy spohn on Jul 24, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: Ken, in the thin fingers section of Blood Sweat an...

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Blood, Sweat, and Smears follows a dihedral with an obvious, small triangular roof. The belay stance for the pitch is down and left from the young tree that is growing near Flying Circus.

Commence up left from the belay, get some tricky gear in, pull up onto the small square ledge, and get your smear on for the next 160 feet. The crux comes about 30-40 feet up, getting up a smooth section of the dihedral and through a small roof. Up higher, you'll have to navigate around a small sapling before hitting a perfect layback splitter to the Big Ledge.

Once on the Big Ledge finish up Dod's Jam or Dastardly Crack.

Blood, Sweat, and Smears has great moves, amazing position, but sadly is quite dirty. If more people climb it and clean it up there is no doubt that it would be a Portland Area CLASSIC, but until it and its approach pitch get cleaner I think its a bit committing.


Just to the right of the Third Tunnel. To approach Blood, Sweat, and Smears we climbed Reasonable Richard (very mossy and lichen covered, questionable pro, but would be very fun if cleaned).
Blood, Sweat, and Smears has the obvious small triangle roof in its dihedral.


Double set of nuts, including extra small stoppers (#3 - #5 BD). Set of cams from #1 - #6 Metolius. Garden Gloves.

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By ahparker
From: Portland, OR
Oct 9, 2015

Very appropriate name for this route, I was certainly doing all three. If you could work "calf pump" into the name somewhere it'd be spot on. I found Matt's description accurate. Lots of lichen but the climbing is actually fantastic. I ran out of appropriate sized gear in the middle section before the hands section at the top so it felt a little more strenuous/spicy than it should have. A few extra finger sized pieces like .3-.5 BD should do the trick. In addition to the rack suggestion, I was also able to drop in some #2 and #3 BD's, especially toward the top. 3's are probably not super necessary but I was happy to have one. Keep in mind it's a longish pitch at about 165 feet with smallish tinkery gear to fingers to hands at the top. If this gets cleaned up I'd agree it will be a total classic.
By Stephen Sh
From: Portland
Sep 6, 2016
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Blood Sweat and Smears is one of my favorite Beacon routes, but as the description notes and ahparker confirmed, in recent years it’s been dirty, overgrown and furry with grey lichen. Not so encouraging. Last weekend BSS got a long deserved cleaning. We pruned out the shrubbery down to the roots, gardened out the grasses and blackberries, and brushed the grey lichen off of the smears. BSS is now more protectable with the crack cleaned out and more climbable with positive smears.

My gear for the route - doubles in BD Camalots 0.3 to 1, a single #2, small to medium stoppers, tricams 0.25 to 1, and some additional thin finger to finger sizes in 3-cam units (Metolius and BD). A fixed pin 10’ from the belay protects the first difficult moves until you can get good gear in. The crack starts as a thin seam and slowly increases in size from thin fingers thru hands over the course of 50 meters. It’s a 50m rap from the BBS anchors down to the Reasonable Richard anchors.

We also cleaned up the approach pitch to BSS – Reasonable Richard (5.9, 40 meters). RR had become overgrown with a thick carpet of moss, blackberries and shrubs. We cleaned it and excavated cracks for slotting gear and a couple of fixed pins from under the moss carpet. It is now quite reasonable.

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