REI Community
Staying Power Towers
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bender S 
Blood Sugar Sex Magik S 
Don't Look Down S 
Don't Look Up S 
Insane In The Membrane S 
Members Only S 
Optimator S 
Thieves in the Temple S 
To Knee or Not to Knee T 
Wired S 
Ya Shoulda' Killed Me Last Year S 

Blood Sugar Sex Magik 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Fred Berman & Marty Lewis, '91.
Page Views: 1,758
Submitted By: Greg Barnes on Dec 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (39)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]


Long, fun climb with a couple cruxes and tons of jug hauling. Don't worry when you're gassed and you can't see the anchor--the last 60 feet are 5.9 jugs.


See Marty Lewis guide.


Lots of bolts (16?). Rap twice with a single 60m rope to Insane in the Membrane; watch rope ends!

Comments on Blood Sugar Sex Magik Add Comment
Show which comments
By C Miller
From: CA
Dec 21, 2006
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Lots and lots of climbing on this long and very enjoyable route. Also the name of a great album by the Red Hot Chili Peppers.
By david goldstein
Dec 21, 2006

A top ten ORG pitch.
By Tavis Ricksecker
Feb 13, 2011

The Lewis guide seems to indicate you can lower off with a 70m rope to the ledge at the start of the climb. We tried this today and found it comes up significantly short no matter what you try to do. Better to rap off or lower to the Insane in the Membrane anchors, even with a 70m. If you had an 80m it would be just fine! :)
By danielwhore
Nov 14, 2011

We used a 70m rope to lower off and it worked just fine - but both climbers must be standing on the ledge. You definitely want to tie a knot at the end of the rope, because your belayer will most likely want to have his/her hands free to climb onto the ledge, as it involves a few 4th class moves to get to the ledge (about 11 feet off the ground). Very mellow and very easy for both climber and belayer to downclimb. Highly recommended route, especially if 5.10d is normally hard for you.
By marc farra
Apr 20, 2013

Amazing climb! Just wanted to make sure people understand as the last poster mentioned with a 70 meter rope the belayer has to climb up to the little ledge in order to get the climber down to that same ledge safely.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Oct 1, 2013

Fun route with technical climbing on large/sloping features through the first section. Not crimpy but attention getting on the bottom end. Up high the route pitches out some but features are large & plentiful with an easy and enjoyable stance for the anchor. Highly Recommended! Did it with a 100 meter rope so there was plenty on the ground - longer routes seem to be pretty popular in the ORG & many people starting to carry 80m ropes. This would be one of those situations.
By Patrick M.
From: Vancouver
Nov 6, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Great route! I'll had my experience with the rap here. I have a 70m and it was significantly short of the ledge (by circa 5 meters). I'm pretty sure my rope is true to its length so be careful.
By mattang
From: rifle, co
Nov 18, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Two different style cruxes on one long pitch... as fun as it gets. Use an 80m.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 11, 2017

If you have an old 70m, you won't even make the ledge. Luckily, you can stop at the 5.12 anchors on the right and lower again.

Super fun climbing the whole way, definitely a top ten 5.10 sport climb.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About