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Blood Sausage 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Garhart and Garman Spring 2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,460
Submitted By: Alex Garhart on May 29, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Heading up on the FA

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb a thin hands splitter that narrows to tips and make a leftwards crack switch to a finger splitter that quickly narrows to tips. Switch back to the right splitter and make some strenuous cranks to get into locker fingers(crux). The splitter then widens to baggy fingers and sustained thumb stacks.
Great rock.

Location 

~10 minutes walk right of where the new trail meets the cliff. Hard to miss.

Protection 

Camalots: (2X) 0.3-0.5, (3X) 0.75 and an optional 2" piece for the start. 2 bolt anchor.


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By Devin Fin
From: DURANGO
Sep 28, 2012

nice work ... i shit the bed on the on sight at the "crux" tuff for fat finger folks .... oooo an thear was blood!!!!!!!
By Kelsey Sheely
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 2, 2013

Great climb! I thought is was easier than Fire Roasted Starfish, but my fingers are on the small size.

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