REI Community
Yataghan
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blood on the Blade T 
Happy Gnome, The T 
Southeast Face T 

Blood on the Blade 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 500', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R [details]
FA: FA 1979 Paul Horak, Mark Leonard, David Baltz
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 130
Submitted By: David Baltz on Jan 29, 2017

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

This route follows the south arête to Lunch Ledge.
P1: Cross a 4th-class slab to the left edge of a triangular face (you can start the 1st pitch here). Make steep moves left past a fixed pin to gain the wall above and wander up and left heading for the obvious right-facing corner. At a bolt, move left around the corner and face climb up for 30 feet then move back right around the corner onto the face and a fixed pin (5.8R). Continue up and right to a bolt below a small roof. Turn the roof (5.10) and belay 10 feet above at the first good crack.
P2: Continue up the gulley 80'to the base of a triangular face.
P3: Traverse left to the crack of Happy Gnome and continue up the crack to a small ledge with a fixed pin on the very edge of the arête.
P4: Move up and right on steep rock with good holds to a bolt. Pull the 5.8 mantle above and continue up the arête to Lunch Ledge.
P5: Finish up the standard Happy Gnome to the summit.

Location 

Up the descent gully to the base of a 4th class slab.

Protection 

RP's to 3" cam.


Comments on Blood on the Blade Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
Feb 5, 2017

Blood on the Blade? Were you all still learning how to use pitons? Just kidding ... but am interested in what might have been behind the name.

Edit to add: Thank you, David Baltz. I tend to as well. :-)
By David Baltz
From: Albuquerque, New Mexico
Feb 7, 2017

Pins are faster than bolts! There were two reasons for the name. First, yataghan is a sword and the route follows the arete or blade. Second, I tend to bleed when I climb.
By Mark Dalen
From: Albuquerque, NM
Apr 21, 2017

One of the more imposing route names out there ... seems like I recall PH proposing an extended name: 'Bloody Baltz on the Bloody Blade Bleeding' ... somehow I never got on it ... good add, though ... Mark

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About