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Blood of Christ T 
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Blood of Christ 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Randy Leavitt and Paul Schweizer, February 1987
Page Views: 1,212
Submitted By: Adam Stackhouse on May 3, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: Looking up Blood of Christ (5.12b). The beginning...

Description 

This face route is left of Burning Bush, and identified by three newish bolts protecting the lower section. This is one of the few routes on the Wall of Biblical Fallacies that looks doable.

Protection 

Bolts and thin gear. Bolted anchor about 55 feet up (shared with Burning Bush)


Photos of Blood of Christ Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: flake-don't-blow
flake-don't-blow
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Lechlinski on an early lead.  I think the big...
Mike Lechlinski on an early lead. I think the big...

Comments on Blood of Christ Add Comment
Show which comments
By Drewsky
Nov 9, 2008

This route is indeed doable and I highly recommend it. While some holds are friable, the rock is generally high quality and the protection good. There is some fixed gear, I believe, between bolts three and four. The mantle above bolt four can be protected by natural gear, although I think the fall is relatively safe (double check the validity of this statement). Cool setting, great route.
By El Pollo Loco
Nov 12, 2014

Route seems to be cleaned up nicely and the rock is good. There's a fixed bashee between bolts 2 & 3 that feels nice to clip but the 3rd bolt is only 1' above it so either way it'll still be safe with or without it there. Top mantle feels nice with a purple totem or BD .4/.5 offset cam. Fun safe climb.
By Alex Shainman
From: Redlands, CA
Feb 10, 2016

Gear beta: A #12 BD Stopper, concave taper facing right, is a very reliable piece at the top...in my opinion.

Hadn't done this in 18-20 years. Definitely a little harder than the original rating, less a couple holds or something like that. A good short, powerful and techy route at the grade. For sure 12a. Main thing though, have a great belayer, keep your shit together and don't blow any clips, bust a hold, etc. I wouldn't put a whole lotta faith on that big aluminum head, although it sure feels good to clip it before another move to the bolt. All 3 bolts appear solid (3/8" Rawl sleeve) with Metolius hangers. Funny thing though, this route is still "entry-level" for this wall...

Reardon soloed this rig? ... Rad (Sick)!!!
By Alex Shainman
From: Redlands, CA
Mar 3, 2017

This route is on the list to be rebolted with 1/2" hardware...once the permit is issued (TBD).

Also, the route has changed considerably since the FA and the aluma-head just needs to go. I have a proposal:

I would like to pull the aluma-head AND the 3rd bolt...and add a new bolt just below where the head is currently. See pics both above and below. For most climbers and definitely shorter than 5'10", you will clip the head (maybe 3rd bolt too) from where my left hand is (a rather hollow flake best used only for the move). The "new bolt" would be clip-able from matched hands (where my right hand is in the below pic - it's a more solid flake). If the upper flake blows while clipping the head - you might deck. If the head fails going for the 3rd bolt, you might deck. The route will flow much better without having to mess with those two pieces at all. There's an easy to place bomber big nut at the mantel to the anchor - the new last bolt would be at your foot while placing it. (holds are still loosening/breaking, unfortunately)


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Rock Climbing Photo: blood of christ
blood of christ
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Mar 4, 2017

Alex,

I will share your opinion with the FA party. Thanks for posting.
By Leavittator
Mar 4, 2017

Alex, Thanks for your interest to maintain this route. Thirty year old bolts should definitely be replaced. I can't comment on where they should go given the current state of the route because I don't specifically remember the moves from 1987. I do recall the stopper, which is natural pro that should remain a part of the climb. Sounds like you have carefully considered the bolt placements.

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