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The Hangdog Cafe
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Blood Monkey 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Magill, Anderson, Burwick
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 141
Submitted By: richard magill on Jul 6, 2001

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This is a pumpy overhanging climb that packs a lot of punch for only being 50 feet tall. It overhangs gently for about 30 feet of 5.11 climbing until you hit a tricky crux (12a). Then the route gets even steeper as you punch through a 5.11 roof. Good stone and lots of fun!


As you look at the Hangdog Cafe, the most obvious feature is a massive horizontal roof with holds only Dave Graham could pull on. A project goes up to the left of the roof. Blood Monkey goes up to the right of the roof, starting out on a featured arete and then up into the only obvious weakness in the roof.


7 bolts.

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By richard magill
Sep 10, 2002

Feedback from some pretty good climbers indicates that this might be a bag at 12a. Consensus seems to be settling in around solid 12b.
By sean connors
Nov 13, 2006

.12b sounds about right.
By Jack Sparrow
From: denver, co
May 15, 2013
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

12b for sure nice route.
By slim
Oct 6, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This is a superb route with great climbing and perfect protection. Absolutely fun.

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