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Blood Clot 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jeff Thomas, Jack Callahan -Jan 1975
Season: Year Round
Page Views: 3,256
Submitted By: Karsten Duncan on Mar 27, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (75)
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Leading Blood Clot on a hot day in the 1980s

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Blood Clot is fun climb that would be more noteworthy if its location were further away from the spectacular Cruel Sister.

It is generally considered easier than Cruel Sister for some with a more difficult crux section. Still it is a very nice climb that takes takes great pro.


This climb lies just to the right of Crack-A-No-Go and to the left of a pidgeon-shit covered ledge. Bolted anchors allow convenient lowering.


Nuts and Cams to #3 camalot.

Photos of Blood Clot Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Following on Blood Clot
Following on Blood Clot
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing up "Blood Clot"
Climbing up "Blood Clot"
Rock Climbing Photo: Bryan rapping down from Blood Clot, Cruel Sister a...
Bryan rapping down from Blood Clot, Cruel Sister a...

Comments on Blood Clot Add Comment
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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
May 10, 2011

I find this to be a bit harder than cruel sister, though nowhere near as sustained. A #4 is nice at the top, but certainly not required. Triple #2s help with the easy crack at the top.
By Matt Farrell
From: Bend, Oregon
Oct 11, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Generally agreed to have a harder crux than Cruel Sister, although less sustained. If you're solid on hands/cups, then Cruel Sister will feel easier than this. If fingerlocks are your thing, then this will feel easier than Cruel Sister.

A fun variation is "Blood Go", where you traverse left into Crack A No Go about 12-15' below the chains and climb the last bit of that (they share the same chains). The last bit of Blood Clot is not as aesthetic as the last part of Crack A No Go, so this linkup gives you the most aesthetic experience, and the traverse move is pretty fun.
By Brian Martin
From: Bend, OR
Mar 13, 2015

I TRed this and Cruel Sister and thought this seemed easier. I led Quasar and thought this was even a bit easier than that. It's a very fun route and next time I go to the LG I will likely climb it again.
By dave Hause
From: carrboro, nc
Jun 27, 2017

Getting greasy at the crux.

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