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Blood and Cuts 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Alan Nelson and Alan Patey 12/81
Page Views: 107
Submitted By: Vernon Stiefel on Feb 23, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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"Blood and Cuts". Photo by Blitzo.


This route, located on the lower tier approximately 125' south of a bolted waterchute (Hot Dog in a Bun), ascends a sustained vertical finger to hand / fist crack. As the route name implies, there are some jagged edges in the crack but the rock quality is good.


This climb protects well with small to medium sized cams and medium stoppers. Medium sized cams are needed for an anchor.

Photos of Blood and Cuts Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Nice splitter. Photo by Blitzo.
Nice splitter. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Randy ascending with impeccable crack climbing tec...
Randy ascending with impeccable crack climbing tec...

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By Randy
Feb 25, 2003
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Do not be put off by the name. We were surprised at how good this route is; it looks like the classic Josh grain-fest. Instead, the inside of the crack is water polished (though it still has crystals). It also seems pretty stiff for 5.9 (I'd say 10a). It will have 2 stars (out of 5) in the new guide (Vol. 2).
By Murf
Feb 26, 2003
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I second the .10a, stiff and sustained for 5.9.
By The Gray Tradster
Jul 24, 2003

Oh' it's 10a. I thought it was the F18's that made it hard. Led it many years ago and right at the crux two USMC F18's made a low, (300ft or so) pass up the canyon. Got so griped I fell off!
By C Miller
From: CA
Nov 11, 2003
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Decent climbing for the area...most of the cracks tend to be a bit sharp anyways being so close to Jumbo Rocks.
By TimM
Jan 25, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Very fun and nice to have as an easily accessible straight-in crack to run laps on.

5.10a for sure.
By JoshuaTreeRunner David
From: Los Angeles
Apr 7, 2009

Agreed. This is one of the coolest finger/hand cracks in JT... sustained nature keeps it interesting all the way.
By DJ Reyes
From: Northern Nevada
Nov 20, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Great route! I enjoyed the tweaky jams down low cause they allow you to really appreciate the bomber jams above. Fairly sustained.
By Richard Shore
Nov 19, 2012

A worthy tick if in the area. A single set of cams from fingers to #3 camalot is plenty if you're comfortable on 5.9 hands. Low crux pulling over the initial bulge. Sling a boulder up top for an anchor. Walk-off to climbers right.
By Alan Nilsson
Jan 2, 2013

Disagree, 5.9 is accurate IMHO.

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