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Blood & Coin T 
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Blood & Coin 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b A3-

Type:  Trad, Aid, 10 pitches, 1200', Grade V
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b A3- [details]
FA: June 2014, DeWeese (solo)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 811
Submitted By: kevin deweese on Aug 28, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Photo overlay for Blood & Coin A3

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


New 10 pitch aid route with amazing thin beak pitches and thin flake nailing that will go free eventually. Goes up the right side of the obvious white flake on the face of Lost Brother. Most looseness has been avoided. A nice escape from the normal choss horror show that is the average obscure new route.

Pitch by pitch description tba..

Possible to bivy without a ledge at top of pitch 1, 3, 5 or 6 (both uncomfortable), and pitch 7. ATC Bivy and Yeti Mating Ledge are both stellar bivy ledges.


Park at the turnout on the left side of Southside Drive 0.9 miles from the El Cap crossover. Walk towards the crag (visible from the parking area) until you start to head uphill. Work your way gradually to the right past multiple large boulders until reaching a rocky wash/gully. Follow gully uphill until the top of the first pitch is visible directly to the left and upward progress can no longer be made up the gully (immediately after climbing over a downed tree). Cut left through the forest following cairns directly to start of first pitch. This approach is a bit longer than heading directly from parking to the toe of the buttress, but is better for carrying loads. ~1 hour with loads


21 Beaks: (7 ea #1-3)
5 Arrows: (2 ea #1-2, 1 ea #3)
4 Angles: (2 ea #1-2)
Nuts: 1 ea
Cams: 2 ea 0.3" - 0.5"
3 ea 0.5" - 2"
2 ea 2" - 4"
optional 5"
Offset Cams: 1 ea
Hooks: 2 ea grappling &cliffhanger
Camhooks: Normal & Wide
16 Rivet Hangers

Photos of Blood & Coin Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Original Topo for Blood & Coin A3
BETA PHOTO: Original Topo for Blood & Coin A3

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By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Sep 26, 2014

Hmmmm, this looks amazing. Has it seen a second? How much could be free-climbed at 5.11 and under, do you reckon?

Proud FA on the solo, well done. Dig the GoT names as well.

"Chaos is a ladder"
By kevin deweese
From: Oakland, Ca
Sep 26, 2014

Hasn't seen a second as of this post. Currently (sept) the spring isn't running well (being a drought year) according to a climber that went up but bailed due to the smoke from the Meadow Fire.

Probably/possible free climbing possibility break down for this climb based upon my biased and unconfirmed views:
P1: 5.9 (no aid required) - confirmed
P2: 5.10 probably
P3: First 30' ~5.10-, Headwall = very difficult, last 70' ~5.11
P4: very difficult
P5: ~5.11 maybe
P6: ~5.12
P7: ~5.10+
P8:5.9 sweet lieback to blocky ledge mantels
P9: ~5.11+ sustained thin flake lieback.

Just a guess. I rope soloed this so didn't even attempt any climbing harder than 5.9 while up there. 5.12 is more of a "idk, damn hard, but not impossible" rating since I don't really climb 5.12 unless it's TR slab with a tight girlfriend belay and plenty of cheating.

Overall there isn't much dirt at all on the route and there would be little need for much gardening at all. Plus, there's still some new route possibilities above and right of the third pitch on the main face between "Blood & Coin" and B.Law's "Prowd."

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