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Blonde Ambition 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Rob Robinson, Peter Henley - 1980
Page Views: 5,639
Submitted By: saxfiend on Nov 23, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (67)
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BETA PHOTO: Blonde Ambition - looking up at the final crack (n...


This sustained moderate is a three-star classic, with solid protection and fun moves all the way. Probably the best for the grade at Sunset -- don't miss it!

Start with face climbing to a small overhang, then follow a crack system to the top.


Starts about 10' right of Second Sun.


Small to medium gear. Bolted anchors.

Photos of Blonde Ambition Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Second Sun and Blonde Ambition
BETA PHOTO: Second Sun and Blonde Ambition
Rock Climbing Photo: Charles Cooper leading Blonde Ambition, April 2013
Charles Cooper leading Blonde Ambition, April 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: I lead Blonde Ambition, as my friend Jeff leads Se...
I lead Blonde Ambition, as my friend Jeff leads Se...

Comments on Blonde Ambition Add Comment
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By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 25, 2010
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

hard to find, its the right hand of the two obvious routs on this wall.

no gear for the first 20' or so, the climbing is probably 5.5-5.6.
By TKHouse
Aug 12, 2011
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b


I managed to plug several pieces in the first 20 feet or so, all smaller cams.

From about 20 feet to 30 feet up, however, there is no gear. Not hard terrain, but you don't want to slip up or you're taking a little ride on the slab.

Phenomenal route, the crack is great fun, it's a constant 5.7 with few good rests and even fewer jams, almost all face business. Great fun.

"Best 7 in the state" according to the Craggers Atlas..? I still love Jay Walker, but that may be my T-Wall bias.

This is a great route.
By highneed
Aug 20, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Not sure if I was tired or what but I didn't find this route to be great, I found Jugular Vein to be the better 5.7 on this wall.
By Charles Cooper
May 13, 2013
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

There were a couple of challenges leading this. I climbed it again on TR after leading and thought it was a total blast. Felt it probably really is 5.7+. Protects well for the most part - mostly small to medium gear and some nuts. Used a red C3 and a red DMM offset nut. Very fun Crack system.
By CraigS.
Jun 30, 2013
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Pretty good climb. Fun all the way. Didn't have trouble protecting it at any time. Wife actually made a comment about me using too many pieces. For the peace of mind, didn't bother me. Plenty of places for nuts.
By Gable Jackson
From: Dahlonega, Georgia
May 9, 2015

If I was a 5.7-5.8 leader I might be wary of leading this route. Maybe I just passed up all the "great gear" mentioned above but I only found about 7 placements in 90', 2 of which I wouldn't have trusted. The climbing itself however was great.
By Robert Hall
From: North Conway, NH
Feb 21, 2017
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Did it several yrs ago, but do remember there was a definite run-out section (in middle [?] ) where I got good pro BUT needed a 6 ft sling on it to keep rope drag down.
By ccollins
Aug 5, 2017

Small loose block at the bottom. Not a big deal but its right where I was placing some gear. Just FYI

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