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Blodgett Canyon

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From MP's sister site:

Blodgett Canyon Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 6,697'
Location: 46.277, -114.3572 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 48,692
Administrators: grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: mr bojangles on Dec 3, 2009


83° | 53°

81° | 51°

82° | 50°

83° | 52°

84° | 53°
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Blodgett Canyon sits in the middle of the Bitterroot Mountain Range and mainly consists of multi-pitch spires and one smaller cliff close to the parking lot.

The south facing side of the canyon is littered with granite cliffs and spires. If you have not been here it's certainly time to go. There is camping right before the trail head as well as a bathroom right there in the parking lot. Most of the approaches to the spires can be a bit grueling, especially the ones further down the canyon.

Another thing to be noted, blodgett rock at times can be the ever puckering big loose block, super scaly, kitty litter type. The important thing to remember is your climbing in Montana, and you’re going to run into the choss sooner than later. The climbing is mostly lay-backing in dihedrals but expect to also see face climbing, runnel mc dunnels, slabs, and rare jam cracks. I think that about does it for the description. If you can top this by all means do so, I just couldn’t bare to see one of Montana’s better areas absent on Mountain Project.

Approach: If you are gathering most of your information out of the falcon guide book do not pay much attention to the worthless approach descriptions. When you are somewhat in line with your climb, scout a line up the talus, find a log crossing, shed a layer, and convince your partner to carry the rope. If this is your first climb in the canyon count on an all day event and start early.

Descent: The decents in Blodgett can be tricky so leave ample time for getting down and know whether you need 2 ropes for the rap.

Getting There 

Head towards Hamilton on Highway 93 and take Blodgett Canyon Road. Access to the climbing routes begin at the Blodgett Creek Trailhead. In Hamilton, Mt, drive west on Main Street (out of the downtown area) until you reach the bridge over the Bitterroot River. Just past (west) the bridge, turn right (north) onto Ricketts Road and drive for .5 mile. At the intersection, turn left (west) onto Blodgett Camp Road. Veer right at the intersection with FS 735 in about 2.5 miles.Continue for about 1.5 miles to the combined Blodgett Creek Campground and TH.

On your left is parking for a couple of dozen vehicles and an outhouse. Here is the trailhead for Blodgett Canyon.

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 11.1 miles from here

31 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',9],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Blodgett Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Blodgett Canyon:
Shoshone South Face   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 5 pitches, 600'   Shoshone Spire
The Free Lament    5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R     Trad, 3 pitches, 450'   Blackfoot Dome
Standard Route   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 5 pitches, 500'   Drip Buttress
Cornlier Ridge (first 3 pitches)   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 315'   Cornler Ridge : Cornlier Ridge
South West Buttress    5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R     Trad, 8 pitches, 800'   Nez Perce Spire
My Moms Muscle Shirt   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 8 pitches, 900'   Flathead Buttress
Poison Flower   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13     Trad, 4 pitches   Shoshone Spire
Timebinder   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 8 pitches, 900'   The Prow
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Blodgett Canyon

Featured Route For Blodgett Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: Viewing Blackfoot Dome from the approach. The Free...

The Free Lament 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Montana : Blodgett Canyon : Blackfoot Dome
The Free Lament is perhaps one of the finer short routes in Blodgett. Perfect slab climbing up a very obvious line, and just enough gear to keep it fun. The climb starts on a high grassy ledge at the true base of Blackfoot Dome. Look for a single bolt 70' up. Begin climbing just right of a shallow left facing corner. Climb past a large hollow flake and find gear in a small crack in a left facing corner. Step up and left aiming for the bolt above. Follow the line of least resistance up through a...[more]   Browse More Classics in Montana

Photos of Blodgett Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Nez Perce and Shoshone Spire, Flathead Buttress
Nez Perce and Shoshone Spire, Flathead Buttress
Rock Climbing Photo: the north side of the canyon
the north side of the canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: Blodgett Canyon, MT
Blodgett Canyon, MT
Rock Climbing Photo: Blodgett Canyon - Looking up drainage from Flathea...
Blodgett Canyon - Looking up drainage from Flathea...
Rock Climbing Photo: Blodgett Canyon, MT
Blodgett Canyon, MT

Comments on Blodgett Canyon Add Comment
Show which comments
By Stamati
From: Bellingham, WA
May 7, 2014
There are some great problems on the campground boulder. You can't miss this thing; it is big and beautiful. My partner and I possibly put up new problems, although it's hard to imagine we were the first to do them. There's no beta I've found out there, though.

The East Face holds three problems- a slight traverse from the center of the boulder right on good crimps and sidepulls with a tiny left foot and high right to a rockover and up to a jug at the top. Another traverses from the left side on gastons, a good rail and poor feet to the center route and the same finish. The third problem starts directly below the finish on a tiny tiny right foot and slopey crimps to a slightly dynamic move to a good edge and joins the original, center route. All share holds and finish in the same place. Quality V1-V2s.

The South Face holds one problem, a V3 on an obvious vertical fissure with sharp sidepulls. No hands out left and a bad smear on the East Face around the arete with a big reach to a sloper on a 'tower-like' feature (obvious) while moving feet up and reaching for a jug up top.

The North Face has an arete problem V1 and a face problem that we couldn't do.

The West Face holds some V0 problems that are fun and a good warmup. It is also the downclimb.

By IJMayer
From: Bellingham, WA
May 15, 2014
Camping note: Free!. The limit is 5 days. There are a few, but not a lot of campsites, so either plan on driving another half hour to Lost Horse (and have directions), or be prepared to camp .5 miles in any direction from the campground. The water pump at this campground is not in service, so bring a filter or bring some bigger re-usable water containers. If you're there for a while you can fill up in Hamilton. Just be nice and ask!

And that boulder is rad. Although I think the description of the routes on the east and west faces should be switched around.
By Robert Madsen
Oct 26, 2015
Hello; My name is Robert Madsen and I'm the one who put up the first routes on the parking lot wall back in the late 60's and early 70's plus many exploratory attempts on the spires. I left a comment on the parking lot wall page. Robert Madsen
By ricktorre Torre
1 day ago
the west face is the face up canyon,the down climd is on the east face.the lie back problem on west face is white lightning,is b1, and was climbed prior to 1983

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