Blodgett Canyon Rock Climbing
Blodgett Canyon sits in the middle of the Bitterroot Mountain Range and mainly consists of multi-pitch spires and one smaller cliff close to the parking lot.
The south facing side of the canyon is littered with granite cliffs and spires. If you have not been here it's certainly time to go. There is camping right before the trail head as well as a bathroom right there in the parking lot. Most of the approaches to the spires can be a bit grueling, especially the ones further down the canyon.
Another thing to be noted, blodgett rock at times can be the ever puckering big loose block, super scaly, kitty litter type. The important thing to remember is your climbing in Montana, and youre going to run into the choss sooner than later. The climbing is mostly lay-backing in dihedrals but expect to also see face climbing, runnel mc dunnels, slabs, and rare jam cracks. I think that about does it for the description. If you can top this by all means do so, I just couldnt bare to see one of Montanas better areas absent on Mountain Project.
Approach: If you are gathering most of your information out of the falcon guide book do not pay much attention to the worthless approach descriptions. When you are somewhat in line with your climb, scout a line up the talus, find a log crossing, shed a layer, and convince your partner to carry the rope. If this is your first climb in the canyon count on an all day event and start early.
Descent: The decents in Blodgett can be tricky so leave ample time for getting down and know whether you need 2 ropes for the rap.
Head towards Hamilton on Highway 93 and take Blodgett Canyon Road. Access to the climbing routes begin at the Blodgett Creek Trailhead. In Hamilton, Mt, drive west on Main Street (out of the downtown area) until you reach the bridge over the Bitterroot River. Just past (west) the bridge, turn right (north) onto Ricketts Road and drive for .5 mile. At the intersection, turn left (west) onto Blodgett Camp Road. Veer right at the intersection with FS 735 in about 2.5 miles.Continue for about 1.5 miles to the combined Blodgett Creek Campground and TH.
On your left is parking for a couple of dozen vehicles and an outhouse. Here is the trailhead for Blodgett Canyon.
Climbing Season For the All Locations area.
Weather station 11.1 miles from here
31 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',9],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Blodgett Canyon
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Blodgett Canyon
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Blodgett Canyon:
Featured Route For Blodgett Canyon
Timebinder 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Montana
: Blodgett Canyon
: The Prow
P1: Entrance Exam pitch. Begin from a grassy ledge, aiming for a lone medium/small tree about 160' up and 40' right. There are 5 bolts (I think) with the first being about 25' off the deck under a small roof. Belay off tree. 5.10P2: 25' (if that) pitch to good sized ledge with 2 bolts for belay. 5.5 Can be linked with P1 but rope drag gets very bad and it will be very tight (but doable) with a 60m rope.P3: Slab pitch. 90' up a moderately tough slab with a cruxy akward long reach from an odd pock...[more] Browse More Classics in Montana
Nez Perce and Shoshone Spire, Flathead Buttress
the north side of the canyon
From: Bellingham, WA
May 7, 2014
There are some great problems on the campground boulder. You can't miss this thing; it is big and beautiful. My partner and I possibly put up new problems, although it's hard to imagine we were the first to do them. There's no beta I've found out there, though.
The East Face holds three problems- a slight traverse from the center of the boulder right on good crimps and sidepulls with a tiny left foot and high right to a rockover and up to a jug at the top. Another traverses from the left side on gastons, a good rail and poor feet to the center route and the same finish. The third problem starts directly below the finish on a tiny tiny right foot and slopey crimps to a slightly dynamic move to a good edge and joins the original, center route. All share holds and finish in the same place. Quality V1-V2s.
The South Face holds one problem, a V3 on an obvious vertical fissure with sharp sidepulls. No hands out left and a bad smear on the East Face around the arete with a big reach to a sloper on a 'tower-like' feature (obvious) while moving feet up and reaching for a jug up top.
The North Face has an arete problem V1 and a face problem that we couldn't do.
The West Face holds some V0 problems that are fun and a good warmup. It is also the downclimb.
May 15, 2014
Camping note: Free!. The limit is 5 days. There are a few, but not a lot of campsites, so either plan on driving another half hour to Lost Horse (and have directions), or be prepared to camp .5 miles in any direction from the campground. The water pump at this campground is not in service, so bring a filter or bring some bigger re-usable water containers. If you're there for a while you can fill up in Hamilton. Just be nice and ask!
And that boulder is rad. Although I think the description of the routes on the east and west faces should be switched around.
By Robert Madsen
Oct 26, 2015
Hello; My name is Robert Madsen and I'm the one who put up the first routes on the parking lot wall back in the late 60's and early 70's plus many exploratory attempts on the spires. I left a comment on the parking lot wall page. Robert Madsen