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Johnson Mountain
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Blockhead T 
Force Boyle., The T 
Settlers Line T 

Blockhead 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Karl Kvashay and Brandon Gottung
New Route: Yes
Season: Sunny aspect so chilly days are good.
Page Views: 70
Submitted By: Brandon Gottung on Sep 7, 2015

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Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Many blockhead moves were committed this day. Including a trundle following pitch 1, which tacks on a solid "+" to grade. I even had a camera up there but never took shots of the line - yep - it's that good! It is worth doing if you are up there with some time left for climbing.

P1 5.10+ Wide jams to an offwidth bulge.
P2 5.9+ Mostly hand jams in the corner.

P2 has a single bolt anchor - another blockhead moment.

Location 

On the Southeast facing wall of Mt Johnson. Climbers left of the gully system left of Force Boyle.

Protection 

Double set fingers to fists, #5 and #6 may be good to have for P1's crux.


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