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Unsorted Routes:

Blockhead 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Steve Hong
Page Views: 389
Submitted By: Kevin Kent on Sep 5, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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From the anchor

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A fun and varied climb. Locate obvious block feature wedged into crack/dihedral about 80-100' above the trail. Fun fingers and hands will get you to the top of the block. From there it's another 50 or so feet up a Slot Machine-esque feature with a 3-4" crack in the back to a stance to clip the anchors from.

Protection 

Can't remember exactly, but maybe a triple rack from .4 to #2 and 2 #3s and #4s. You might be able to get a #5 in up top too but I can't recall and I didn't have one but I did have an old #4 that I walked up the entire upper part.


Comments on Blockhead Add Comment
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By justino
Sep 6, 2014

Is there a legit anchor up there nowadays? The only time I climbed it was several years ago and we found a SH homemade hanger with hemp rope and some mystery tat. I added a nut and more tat...Definitely a candidate for good anchors as its a classic!
By justino
Sep 6, 2014

FA Steve Hong

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