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YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Chris Archer, Sarah Spaulding - 31 July 2008
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,046
Submitted By: Chris Archer on Sep 13, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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Starting the thin crack.

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  • Description 

    Climb Joint Venture for 2 bolts then move up and right following a thin crack that leads to a difficult traverse right to a stem rest in the corner. Move back out left and climb through the roofs via some wild, inobvious moves and finish on the face above.


    The route starts on Joint Venture, just left of Jaycene's Dance.


    12 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

    Photos of Blockhead Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Reaching the lip.
    Reaching the lip.

    Comments on Blockhead Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Mike to the B
    Jul 1, 2009

    Wait a tick, so the dihedral is "on" for stemming/rest below the roof crux? Has the direct line, minus the stem been done? Seems more direct and harder for sure.
    By Chris Archer
    Jul 1, 2009

    It has been done without using the obvious stem. 12c/d.
    By Mike to the B
    Jul 1, 2009

    Thanks Chris. Good to know...thought I was losing a step. Although, the next move after hugging the block seemed really hard too. You don't continue to stem, right? Great line.
    By Chris Archer
    Jul 2, 2009

    The stemming is over after the traverse right. Once you step back left the business begins, but there are several Rifle-like moves that are less than obvious that make it pretty reasonable. Glad you like the route, Mike.
    By Joshua Merriam
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 15, 2009
    rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

    The crack in the corner, and everything to the right of the corner should be considered off. Anything else disrespects the roof.

    It's a great roof, albeit squeezed. The first 2 or 3 bolts are the same as Joint Venture. Then moving out right into the big roof, there's some powerful shouldery moves, a long reach or jump to the matchable crimp out left, and some good knee tricknology to surmount the final roof section. I'd like to add another bolt after standing up above the roof instead of climbing the rest of that arete to the upper anchor I'd make an (optional) midway anchor. Felt something like 12+.
    By George Squibb
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 17, 2009
    rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

    Better than it looks, not as contrived as it looks, more independent than it looks...lots of quality movement in a small package; clearly, the corner should not be used...and it's not really that's hard enough to get pumped in BoCan as it is. Full Disclosure: Chris is a friend of mine.
    By Kai Huang
    From: Aurora, CO
    Nov 8, 2009
    rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b

    I am also glad to find out that without the stemming is 12+. I didn't think the stemming was on to begin with, got on it, figured out my beta, and thought it was most definitely harder than 12b. Really, really fun route. Rifle-like climbing on granite. Found both left and right knee bars, and this time they fit my leg size. I was really excited to find them.
    By Joshua Merriam
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 8, 2010
    rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

    The flake/sidepull feature just before the first roof broke off this morning. The BLOCK hit me in the HEAD, but luckily it left a usable feature when it departed. After regaining my wits, and cleaning up the blood, we checked to see and the route still goes. Maybe it's solid 12c now.
    By Train4life
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jan 7, 2014
    rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

    Without stemming is so awesome! Rifle style, tons of kneebar beta! 12c/d is definitely the grade if you don't use the wall to the right. That being said, either way you climb this rig it is super fun and has some classic knee bars. I counted 3 in about 10 feet! :) I thought stemming was off, also, until the guy that bolted it came up and started telling me about it!
    By eddie m
    Jun 27, 2015
    rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

    Not that sweet but kinda cool. Considerably harder in my opinion than Piles of Trials. Worth doing if you're there IMO.

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