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Block/Gully Var. 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
Page Views: 544
Submitted By: Maidy on Aug 25, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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The odd old bolted/mixed route that heads up the huge blocks and gully just right of the Roof Route. Share's the start of #3 (clip the left bolt at the roof) then gully-hop, traversing left while clipping the 2 bolts on top of the big blocks. Ends straight up a crack with a manzanita growing out of it. (Shown as the dotted line "var" on the beta map).

Pretty grungy with some loose rock in the gulleys. There are a couple of moves off the blocks some folks may find fun, but the topout around the bush is gritty and awkward. NOTE: Cutting manzaninta is illegal so please don't kill the bush to facilitate a mediocre climb.

For a more interesting finish... just keep traversing left to link up and top out on the #2 Roof Route. Watch your rope-end on the lower. Not sure if 60m makes it to the ground.


This is the bolted gully between the #2 "Roof Route" and the #3 Route.


Draws. A couple of mid-size cams to protect the runout crack at the top.

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