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Blockade Direct ? 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 320'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 94
Submitted By: Michael Z. on Oct 25, 2015

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Nick pulling through the pitch two roof.

Description 

There are three leaning corners just south of the slabs. Maybe you've looked up at them and and wondered how they'd climb. Well, one day we decided to just rack up and go for it. I'm glad we did, as it turned out to be a fun climb and good adventure. Despite the manky first pitch and a bit of rubble topping out on the last, the majority of climbing is great and the rock good, and the final corner, if a little brutal, is phenomenal!


P1, 120' 5.4
Scramble leftward up corners of broken rock to a large ledge below one final corner with some tat that resembles a rap station. This is the first pitch of Old Cannon/Blockade. It's a total choss fest but easy enough to avoid the worst of it.

P2, 90' 5.8+
Head up a corner and continue straight up a slab past an old 1/4 inch bolt 15 feet to your left to another corner below a large overlap. Become established in this then pull straight through the roof and head up to another overlap/roof and belay on its right. This is a fun pitch on nice rock.

P3, 110' 5.9
Break right from the belay and traverse under the roof until it ends then climb up to the base of the central of three corners (the really nice one that can be seen from the ground). Jam up the absolutely splitter crack and perfect corner to its top. Watch for loose rock as you pull out of the corner (I cleaned one big jug) and build a belay at a slung spike.

A two rope rappel from here gets you back to the first belay. A single 60m rope from the first belay gets you close enough to the ground to scramble off.

Certainly not a classic but after the first pitch the rock quality is good and seems stable.

Location 

About a hundred or so feet left of weissners below the three leaning corners. I'd call this the far left hand margin of the slabs

Protection 

A standard rack up to a #3 camalot with doubles in #1 and #2 should do you just fine but a second #3 wouldn't hurt if you've got it. On pitch three its best to save two #1's and at least one #2 and possibly a #3 for the corner. Four pieces should stitch it right up, three seemed adequate.


Photos of Blockade Direct ? Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Me at the rappel point of the route.
Me at the rappel point of the route.

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