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Millbrook
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ladder T 
Abram Believed --- Innumerable Stars T 
Access/Exit Chimney. T 
Cruise Control T 
Detached Flake T 
Great White Throne Judgment T 
Headstone of the Corner T 
High Plains Drifter T 
New Frontier T 
Northern Grand Traverse Ledge Access  T 
Nuclear Waste  T 
Parousia T 
Redirectionalism  T 
Schlemiel T 
Time Being T 
Time Eraser, The T 
Toprope line: Bronze Serpent  TR 
Toprope line: Worthy is the Lamb TR 
Toprope lines TR 
Westward Ha! T 

Headstone of the Corner 

YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a X

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a X [details]
FA: Donald Perry October 29th 2016
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 207
Submitted By: donald perry on Oct 30, 2016

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Partially closed.

Description 

The climb is named after the giant block at the corner of the cliff: The stone which the builders refused has become the head stone of the corner (Psalm 118:22).

Climb up just right of The Ladder in the chimney until you get to a ledge system just a few feet off the ground. Traverse right and up to and through the left facing corner next to the giant block. At the top of the block go far left to a hand crack and climb to the top of the crack. Expect a pile of dirt or mud there. You can go around the corner right to finish on The Detached Flake-Saucony.

Thirty years ago trying to exit out of Millbrook in the dark, I looked up at this climb and thought it might be a good way to get out. It is still a very scary climb today.

I recall Rich Romano telling me back in the 70s that he may have climbed up and out that way ... but he could not remember back then. So we are not sure if Romano has done this first solo or not.

Location 

Climb up just right of The Ladder in the chimney.

Protection 

None getting to the block at the corner stone.


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