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Avant Garde T,TR 
Bad Manners T 
Big Man on Campus T,TR 
Block Party TR 
Boys Visit Charm School S,TR 
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Dancing Hearts T 
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Graduation Day T,TR 
Heart Throb T 
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Block Party 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  TR, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Alan Watts, TR, 1991
Season: morning shade
Page Views: 38
Submitted By: ferrells on Jun 30, 2010

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Description 

Another technical 5.10 in the Textbooks. I thought the opening moves were totally vicious - getting over the mantel was pretty nasty, at least the way I did it. Someone should comment if there's actually a 10b way of doing it. It felt like I was doing something stupid (although it was really fun).
After that, the moves are good, with lots of edges and pockets. Worthwhile both for the finish and for the tricky bulge at the start.

Location 

The fourth set of anchors working back, along the rim, from the end of the Textbooks.

Protection 

TR on bolted anchor.
Apparently, there's a large loose block (hence the name) partway up. I never noticed it while tr soloing, but keep your belayer out of the way just in case.


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