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Block Party 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jeff Bates & Rick Thompson, 1998
Page Views: 2,281
Submitted By: Guy H. on Apr 6, 2002

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BETA PHOTO: Chauncey cruising Block Party while I struggle on ...


This climb is listed as a 10b in the guidebook, but 95% of the climb felt like easy 5.9. This is wonderful route that should not be missed. There are some huge holds on this climb. The crux is probably clipping the anchors. They are in an awkward position above a small roof. If the anchors were below the roof the climb, this climb would a three star 5.9. Enjoy....


6-7 bolts.

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 10, 2016
By Old Fart aka Dave Bohn
Apr 9, 2002

I agree with the 5.9 part but I would say 9+. A fantastic jug haul warm-up but I had no problems at the anchors and I'm 6" shorter then Guy. A fun, moderate, must do, 3 star route no matter what you grade it!
By shad O'Neel
Apr 13, 2003

[It's] getting slippery.
By David Danforth
From: California/Colorado
May 21, 2003

What do you mean by slippery?
By Brian Adzima
From: San Francisco
Mar 4, 2007

Immediately to the left there is a bolted line with "Anguish and Fear 5.10a" painted at the base. It's pretty similar. Both seem to have a lot of dust on the holds (slippery?).
By Meredith DB
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 25, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I've done this route a couple times, and I always forget how fun it is. Definitely worth doing.
By Cam Reade
Mar 22, 2008

Fun 5.9 until the anchor. Clipping the anchor is the 10b part of this climb.
By Hans Hoffman
From: D'iberville, MS
Nov 8, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I second what Cam Reade said. Also, it's a pretty fun route considering the diversity (foot ledge right before all the huecos, the small crack at the top, and the awkward anchors). My first .10b lead.
By Sol Putman
Jun 13, 2011
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Fun route, gets climbed a lot, so all the moves are in plain sight, gets a little pumpy towards the top if you're not in good shape. Crux is def' the anchor clip.
By Jordan Hirro
From: Colorado Springs/Carbondale
Feb 27, 2014

Not quite as fun as the neighboring 10 to the left but still a good route. Very fun moderate!
By Rick Thompson
From: Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Jan 20, 2015

FA: Jeff Bates & Rick Thompson, 1998.
By Ben.Foster
From: West Bend, WI
Nov 4, 2015

Super fun and somewhat unique climb. One of my favorite routes at Shelf.
By Steven Bogacz
Oct 10, 2016
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

This is such a fun route. A very easy start on the flake to gain the first couple of bolts and then slightly overhung climbing on fantastic holds. Clipping the anchors can feel a little squirrely, but take advantage of the crack and ledge just below them to get a little freshness back in your forearms before going for the top!

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