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Blizzard Ridge 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Allan Austin (1958)
Page Views: 16
Submitted By: farkas.time on Aug 27, 2013

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Description 

A gritstone classic. Excellent, sustained climbing up a long arete in an exposed, beautiful position.

Begin with a short, rather pleasant boulder problem (V1) up a blank wall, which is the technical crux. Continue up ~10 feet with good hands, then move left and climb the arete past a small roof to a bouldery topout.

A 5.10 direct start straight up the arete from its base (left of classic start) is supposed to be good (FA Peter Stone 1998), but it looks pretty hard to me.

Location 

Start 10 feet left of Jonathan's Chimney, ~50 left of the needle. Around the corner to the left, on the same buttress, are Ulex (5.7) and Gardener's Pleasure (5.7), two hand/fist cracks side-by-side. Gardener's Pleasure (on the right) has a large tree growing out of it about 3/4 of the way up.

Walk off left.

Protection 

Cams to 3", medium stoppers, and a spot for the start.

Protection is fabled poor on this route. It is certainly not abundant, but is good and straightforward where it counts, resulting in no proper runouts. Doubles in mid-sized cams (Camelot .4 to 1) would avoid any problems. The RockFax infamous heart-with-wings icon is, in my opinion, not appropriate here.

Extend anchor from tree at top and belay sitting off the body.


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