REI Community
South Summit
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blister Hill Bypass to Forgotten Arete T 
Dead Baby Goat T 
Geurt's Ridge T 
Seriously where the f*** is Duc TR 
South Summit Push, The T 
Waiting for Duc T 
Where's Duc T 

Blister Hill Bypass to Forgotten Arete 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 1220'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,453
Submitted By: Tristan Higbee on Sep 15, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Looking down Forgotten Arete. It climbs better tha...

Description 

This route up Mt. Olympus provides a more interesting alternative to the standard hiking trail. You start on the trail, hike up for a while, climb one 450’ rock rib (Blister Hill Bypass), hike on the trail some more, climb a 770’ rib (Forgotten Arete), then finish hiking on the trail to the true summit of Mt. Olympus. It’s kind of weird and contrived, but the actual climbing is surprisingly good.

Approach 

Park at the standard Mt. Olympus trailhead that’s on Wasatch Blvd., just north of the the intersection of Wasatch Blvd. and Tolcate Hills Drive. Hike up the trail for 45 minutes or an hour until you’re at the base of “Blister Hill,” the section of the trail that has lots of forested switchbacks. The Blister Hill Bypass ridge climbs the obvious rocky rib to the right of the Blister Hill switchbacks. The trail comes within 50 feet of the base of the rib. The base of the rib is at 6280’.

Blister Hill Bypass 

Climb up the rib, staying right on its edge for the most part. It’s mostly 4th class, but there are three 5th class sections. The first is a steep step with good holds. The second is a lower angled but relatively smooth and rounded part of the ridge. The third is a mantle using a hand crack. 450’ (vertical gain; actual climbing length is more), 5.5. You might be able to bypass the crux sections by going to either side.

Once the ridge ends, walk left for a few minutes until you’re back on the trail. Continue hiking up the trail for another 15 or 20 minutes. When you get to a clearing and can get good look at Geurt’s Ridge (before you head into the trees), look at the ridge to its right on the other side of the canyon (see beta pic). That ridge is Forgotten Arete.

Keep hiking on the trail as it goes through the trees. Forgotten Arete is right above the trail to the right (south). It doesn’t look like much when you’re on the trail. If you’re wondering, “Uh… Is that jagged thing the ridge?”, you’re probably spot on. The start of the ridge is at 7630’ and is 20 or 30 feet from the trail.

Forgotten Arete 

This ridge kind of parallels Geurt’s Ridge (which is to the north or climber’s left), though it’s not nearly as long.

This ridge isn’t quite as sustained as the Blister Hill Bypass, but it’s longer. It’s also a bit more complex, requiring some down-scrambling and skirting around gendarmes. There are one or two 5th class sections. 770’ (vertical gain; actual climbing length is more), 5.5.

Follow the ridge until it ends (at about 8400 feet), then head left for 10 minutes through light brush and over rocky terrain until you run into the trail again. Either head up to the mountain’s summit or head down the trail.

Protection 

If not soloing, a set of nuts and handful of cams from fingers to hands should suffice.

Descent 

Walk down the trail back to the trailhead.


Photos of Blister Hill Bypass to Forgotten Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up from the base of Forgotten Arete.
Looking up from the base of Forgotten Arete.
Rock Climbing Photo: Geurt's Ridge on the left, Forgotten Arete on the ...
BETA PHOTO: Geurt's Ridge on the left, Forgotten Arete on the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down Blister Hill Bypass.
Looking down Blister Hill Bypass.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up from the base of the Blister Hill Bypas...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up from the base of the Blister Hill Bypas...
Rock Climbing Photo: Blister Hill Bypass. Blister Hill is the tree-cove...
BETA PHOTO: Blister Hill Bypass. Blister Hill is the tree-cove...

Comments on Blister Hill Bypass to Forgotten Arete Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tristan Higbee
From: Ogden, UT
Sep 15, 2011

I first read about these two variations on SummitPost, and that’s where I got the names.

Blister Hill Bypass
Forgotten Arete

The beta pics provide better info on the ridge locations than my description. Also, it’s always hard rating things like this. You could probably 4th class it the whole way if you took your time to assess every option, or you could make it 5.6 or 5.7 if you went straight up some of the steeper steps.

The actual climbing on these ribs is better, harder, and more sustained than anything on, say, Mt. Superior’s South Ridge, though the setting and exposure isn’t nearly as spectacular. In general, the rock is great and solid.

There’s another ridge just to the right of Blister Hill Bypass that looks as good if not better.
By spencer donovan
Oct 5, 2015

Not exactly one of the most aesthetic ridges around the Wasatch, but fun enough. only a few steep moves on Blister Hill Bypass, if you are looking for them. For the Forgotten Arete if you do some zigging and zagging there are some really nice sections of rock to be had. Lots of lichen though, and be sure to take your time if you commit to some of the harder moves, lots of sneaky loose rocks.
By Mulch
From: SLC, Utah
Aug 22, 2017

The bypass is the best way to get up Blister Hill. That part of the trail f***ing blows.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About