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Blind Prophet 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b PG13

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b PG13 [details]
Page Views: 3,081
Submitted By: Bennett Harris on Mar 9, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Jason Philippi leading Blind Prophet (12c). Photo ...


Climb the technical and flaring dihedral just right of the smooth face with swirls in the rock (Black and Blue Velvet). Pull the first roof then continue through steep jugs to an upper head wall where a thin crux awaits. This route is one of the best at Pilot.




7 bolts

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By Cragmama
From: North Carolina
May 19, 2012
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13

A half inch piece can protect the runout exiting the dihedral.
By Trevor V.
From: Santa Barbara, Ca
Jul 3, 2013
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

More sustained and a harder head wall crux than Mr. Henar. Less overall strength and power required. The runout exiting the dihedral seems a bit dangerous because of the bolt placement, which would surely have you swinging hard into the wall. That said the climbing through there is relatively easy.
By Graham Beck
From: Charlotte, North Carolina
May 24, 2014

This route has new permadraws after the fourth bolt all the way up to the new permadraw chains. This makes one of my personal favorite hard routes at pilot safer and a lot more accessible to get all the way to the top.
By Edward Medina
From: Ridgway, CO
May 26, 2014

How does the permadraw make it safer? Are the bolts poorly positioned?
From: Winston-Salem, NC
May 27, 2014

The bolts were perfectly safe and not very hard to clean. There is no reason for the permadraws.
By Edward Medina
From: Ridgway, CO
May 28, 2014

Were these put in with the permission of the park? If not this is one of those things that could harm climber relations.
By Kurtrude
Apr 6, 2015

I haven't seen any discussion about the three variations to the top of this route:

1. The variation around the left side of the arete at the top, using jugs and then traverse over to the anchors and clip. (Easiest)

2. The variation using thin crimps on the upper headwall, going straight up, traverse a little to the anchors and clip. (Was the most difficult IMO)

3. The variation trending directly towards anchors on crimps and a chossy side pull to some sloppy jugs that finish right at the chains. (read below)

Anyways... On Sunday I ripped off the chossy side-pull on Variation #3 and it hit me in the head on the way down. I tried it again without the hold and it seems a lot harder now. I know glue is an uncommon practice, but if anyone can't live without that hold on that silly variation... Then I still have the hold in my possession, feel free to glue it back on. I think it may actually be harder to go this way now without and created an interesting new sequence.

Rock Climbing Photo: Choss
By Steve Lineberry
From: Charlotte, NC
Apr 7, 2015

I think the 12b line is your variation #2. I think there used to be a 12c line similar to your #3 but holds have broken over the years and I am unsure that line still exists.
By Joe Whittlesey
From: Durham, NC
Nov 13, 2016

Red pointed this today. I think the cam in the crack is unnecessary, you are right above your last bolt. It would just help your feelings, besides couple moves and you are on the jug ledge. I know nothing of these variations, I just took the most obvious line following the bolts.

I agree the permadraws don't really add much safety, they just allow you to collect your gear if you can't finish the crux at the top.
By Henry Ritterpusch
May 8, 2017

I attempted to climb black and blue into the extension today and I ended up working out the moves on variation three and they went after a few minutes of working it. Ended up doing a long iron cross to the big crimp farther right and lower from where there hold broke (this move feels v6 or 7), matched it and bumped up to the sloper then finished it out. Climbing this sequence after Black and Blue feels 13c, but some confirmation is needed, send soon??

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