REI Community
Hostess Gully - West Corridor
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
13b S 
Between Heaven and Earth S 
Blind Pig S 
Das Boot T 
Earth Muffin S 
El Castleton T 
Fruit Filling T 
Fruit Pie S 
Get Your Fixe S 
Ho Ho S 
Honeymoon in Almo S 
It Takes Two S 
Numbshull T,S 
Patina Atoll T,S 
Piece of Cake T 
Red Rib S 
Slab Happy S 
Southern Rock Opera T 
Twinkie T 
Zinger S 

Blind Pig 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 115'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Brian Cabe & Nathan Smith
Page Views: 1,152
Submitted By: Skiholzer on Jul 18, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING MORE INFO >>>


Start on the large boulder for Honeymoon in Almo. The first crux (5.9/10) is pulling over the small roof at the second bolt. The route curves left until a second small roof, then moves back slightly right. A small cam is nice for protecting the roof move since you're 15 feet out from the last bolt; although the move isn't too difficult. Climb the smooth friction face above (5.10a) to a bolt and to the chains. Rope drag can be a bit of a problem. Sporty bolt placements. From the chains a 70 M rope will just make it to the starting boulder (with rope stretch). 60 M will require a little down climbing.


Near the top of the Hostess Gully between "Honeymoon in Almo" and "Between Heaven and Earth".


Draws and maybe a small cam.

Photos of Blind Pig Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A little fun on Blind Pig
A little fun on Blind Pig

Comments on Blind Pig Add Comment
Show which comments
By Brian in SLC
From: Sandy, Utah
Jul 29, 2010

FA Brian Cabe and Nathan Smith.
By boltclippinfool
Aug 25, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Fun route! I thought the crux move over the lower roof is a bit harder than 10a, it's over quick tho. Then, pretty cruiser to the second roof, which has huge holds. I wedged a medium stopper here for peace of mind. Once you turn the final roof you'll encounter a beautiful, seemingly featureless shield of dark stone. Press onwards to find cool edges right where you need them to get you to the chains.
By Charlie S
From: Ogden, UT
Jun 7, 2014

Definitely worth more than the one star it's given in the guidebook.

Didn't find cam or nut placements necessary. Some hunting will reveal secure feet. Way to save the crux for the last 10 feet of the climb! Good, long climb.
By Dan Mathews
Aug 11, 2014
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

The climb has a hard/awkward move at the beginning and a challenging sequence at the end. The middle is a bit easier, but a lot of fun.
From: Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
May 22, 2016

Fun route, more like three stars. Crux is most definitely at the top. Don't be surprised when things go horribly blank.
By nmiller
From: Bozeman, MT
Jun 22, 2016
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

super fun climb! the sequency slab moves to the chains were the crux for me, lower bulge felt 5.9.

Note: the topo in the Bingham guide shows starting on the 5.9 to the right (starting on a cone shaped slab). Go 30 more feet up the gully and you'll see the first few bolts going directly up the right edge of the huge sea of varnish. Can be confusing because the 5.9 also pulls a bulge at the second bolt.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About