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Chocolate Factory
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Team Tough on Tour S 
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Wonkaholic S 

Bleak December 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Andy Mann
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,428
Submitted By: Andrew Mann on Dec 11, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: The wall. The route. There is an unlabeled route...

Recently Purchased in 2017 by the RRGCC.


An awesome, a-typical RRG route following a gorgeous slightly overhanging brown/gold streak. Just enough usable holds, at a choice angle, make for good movement the whole way. Very crimpy.

Start by following 2 bolts of a left arching crack until it peters out. Bust the crux move off small, sharp crimps, clip, and make some more long moves on small holds to a flat jug. Crux over. Steller face climbing leads past small plates and pockets to a spicy and sequential shakedown at the anchors.

Grade is my best estimate and with a grain of salt...


Currently this is the route to the right of Cat's Demise (13b) on the far left side of the Chocolate Factory proper.

From Wobbler & Malice: Walk the cliff down into a gully and back up to a large orange wall defined by a crack leading form a huge 10 foot hueco. Follow the trail left about 100 feet and up to a large ivy grown wall with 2 clean gold streaks on the right. Bleak December is the left of the two routes. I believe the route in the streak 20 feet to the right is called "Dainty Butterfly" 12b - but I could be mistaken.

Fastest approach: You can take a left fork off the approach trail to Oompa and Loompa. Look for the uphill overgrown logging road about 40 feet after hopping over the small creek - approx 150 yards from the road. Follow a few minutes and look for the wall in the description photo up on your left (north facing).


6 bolts and anchors.

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By Andrew Mann
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 20, 2012

As suspected, some of the tiny crimps have broken away in the lower crux. No worries, a better route for it. Consensus by the end of this season is at solid 5.12b, which I had a sneaky feeling it was to begin with. Climb on.
By skinny legs and all
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Jun 18, 2013

This is one of the best pages I have seen for a low end 5.12 on the site. Well done Andrew!

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