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1911 Gully T 
Blazing Biners T,S 
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Shoyu State S 
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Unnamed (formerly entered as Problem Child) T,TR 
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Wrongs of Fall T 
Unsorted Routes:

Blazing Biners 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: unknown.
Page Views: 1,647
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Aug 8, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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A great route on the Third.

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  • Description 

    Blazing Biners may be worthwhile if you're in the area for Shoyu State, but even that could be debated. The climbing is good, but the problem is it is very contrived: The bolts force you to stay just right of obvious juggy holds.

    To find the climb, see the description for Shoyu State. From the bottom of the ramp, scramble up about 25 feet and then place gear in a good crack below the lip of the roof. Grab a big positive hold and swing up onto the face and climb past three bolts to the slung horns. Try not to look left at the big holds.


    Three bolts to an anchor (horn slung with webbing). Bring a cam in the Yellow or Red Alien range to protect the opening move.

    Photos of Blazing Biners Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Glen C. Making it look easy with a pack on.
    Glen C. Making it look easy with a pack on.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Approaching the second bolt.
    Approaching the second bolt.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Crossing back right at the third bolt. This was th...
    Crossing back right at the third bolt. This was th...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling the roof.
    Pulling the roof.

    Comments on Blazing Biners Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Ivan Rezucha
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Sep 2, 2006
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    I climbed right between bolts 1 and 2 and left between bolts 2 and 3, then diagonalled right to the top. On average, that's "belly up" to the bolts, but perhaps only 5.9. Perhaps, I used the "obvious jugs", but straight up past the bolts seemed pretty blank.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Nov 9, 2006
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Note: the jugs are quite far off of the bolts, so there is a pretty obvious difference in the lines.
    Straight up "belly to the bolts" is not as hard as you'd think. Tiny square edges and chips appear just as you need them. The climbing is quite good that way and the crux is actually encountered. 5.10a belly to the bolts. 5.9 otherwise.
    By Jay Eggleston
    From: Denver
    Oct 29, 2007
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Climbed this today and 10a seems about right. It is tempting to stray left of the bolts, but it is not necessary. There is now a two bolt ASCA anchor above this climb just left of the horn which was slung in the past.

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