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Blast Furnace 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Kelly Cordner, Dave Pedersen
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,500
Submitted By: kelly cordner on Aug 28, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Nice warm up. 8 bolts. Shares start with Flame Thrower then follows obvious weakness to the right.


Shares start with Flame Thrower, then follows obvious weakness to the right.


8 bolts

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By Katiebird
Aug 30, 2014

While I have not climbed this line myself I have seen these bolts. I know a lot of development has been going on in Pine Creek lately and while its great to have new lines to climb some of it is over the top. The walls are becoming over protected and unsightly. People are complaining that this is a squeeze job and are also able to place pro in the cracks. This is an example of over bolting and they should be removed!
Rock Climbing Photo: using pro not bolts
using pro not bolts
By Wedgy
Sep 2, 2014

This "route" needs to get chopped. Don't bother climbing it as it's not worth your effort. I actually can't believe it was put up.
By rickziegler
Sep 2, 2014

If you're able to touch the bolts on the route next door while clipping, it's a squeeze job!
By Salamanizer
From: Vacaville Ca.
Sep 2, 2014

Clearly a lack of vision.
By kelly cordner
From: Fish Lake Valley, NV
Sep 2, 2014

I think all of the ethical and aesthetical concerns expressed above are valid. However, I also think there is a need for another easy, shady sport warm up. Marty's "5.10a" is virtually always busy. I agree that the first 2 or 3 bolts could be clipped on Flame Thrower and that was the original plan. However at the time the route was going in some friends were climbing Flame Thrower and it seemed silly to make people wait for flame thrower because someone was on the new route. Thus, the lower bolts. As far as leading it on gear, you still can. I wouldn't send a 5.8 climber on this route with gear (especially prior to the cleaning we did and putting the anchors in). It wouldn't bother me at all if the first 2 or 3 bolts were chopped or moved. I've talked to at least 10 people who thought the climbing was fun and were glad to have another warm up.
By Morgan Nutting
From: Bishop, CA
Sep 3, 2014

If someone didn't want to wait for Supergrinder or Beckys route, they could walk a little further and do Friendly faces everywhere or that new 5.8 past the Gecko wall. With all the virgin rock in Pine Creek there's no need to squeeze a classic line.
By Jeff Scheuerell
Sep 6, 2014

Ya, those bolts are shockingly close to Flame thrower. Not Kelly's best decision. Just remove the first 2 bolts, no big deal. It's not a horrible route otherwise and it is nice to have another warm up. As far as placing bolts next to cracks there are several bigger offenders. Some are considered 4 and 5 star routes. No mention of these???
By James Barnett
From: Bishop Ca.
Sep 11, 2014

Bolts were gone today ? ?
By Todd Townsend
From: Bishop, CA
Sep 14, 2014

The bolts were relocated further to the right so as to not squeeze Flamethrower so much. They are painted tan and kind of blend into the rock, so they're hard to see. I wasn't personally involved in this project at any point, but FWIW I approve of the new line.

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