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Hueco: V10 Font: 7C+

Type:  Boulder, 12'
Original:  Hueco: V10 Font: 7C+ [details]
FA: Dave Graham
Page Views: 2,513
Submitted By: Ladd on Apr 30, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Locked in on the micro crimps on Blaow.


Start high on two crimps above head height (they are bad!!) Deadpoint all points off to jug up and left. It looks possible, but it isn't.

For a V5 boulderer I have decent crimp strenght. I can support my body weight on these crimps and pull up with feet on, but man i can't imagine what kind of training it would take for me to feel confident dyno-ing off these crimps.


Left of Ride the Lightning, right of Terrorist.


Pad and spotter strong enough to catch you, so you can commit.

Photos of Blaow Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Aaron sending Blaow first go.
Aaron sending Blaow first go.
Rock Climbing Photo: Aaron generating power off of the tiny crimps
Aaron generating power off of the tiny crimps
Rock Climbing Photo: Noah going for it
Noah going for it
Rock Climbing Photo: Me sending Blaow
Me sending Blaow
Rock Climbing Photo: Blaow

Comments on Blaow Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 17, 2017
By BDalhaus
From: Bangor, ME
Mar 6, 2008

There is also a variation that heads up and right. Pull on to the two crimps, cross left hand up to a decent sidepull, then follow the holds straight up.
By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Mar 6, 2008

whats the rating on the variation?
By BDalhaus
From: Bangor, ME
Mar 7, 2008

The variation is also supposed to be about V10
By Jeremiah Johnson
From: Contoocook, NH
Mar 7, 2008

The variation is also good (maybe better in my opinion) from a jump start - grab the better of the two crimps with your right hand and jump to the pinch. Not v10 if you jump though.
By Morgan Patterson
From: CT
Jul 11, 2013

My old nemesis...
By Troy Fauteux
From: Henniker NH
Jun 17, 2016
rating: V10- 7C+

So after doing this climb last weekend I got Aaron on it and the left starting hold definitely broke some after he sent. Nothing major but there is now a little groove for you to put your left hand pinky in making it slightly more comfortable in my opinion. It's not anything significant but I figured It was worth noting. The first clip in this video it was definitely not broken yet.
By Hunter Locke
Dec 3, 2016

Hey guys, as I was pulling on Blaow today the left hand broke more. A pretty decent size chunk came off, probably about 1 inch long and wide or so. Now the top of the hold is flat instead slanted down left. I still was able to pull on it after it broke, just to see if it was still doable. There wasn't much difference, I think the crimp might be the tiniest bit deeper, but I think it compensates for now that its at a worse angle. Lets get some people in to send it that have sent it to see if the grading has changed at all.

Sorry guys, I was quite bewildered after the piece popped off when I was on it. I'm about 140 pounds and definitely not expecting that. Good news is its still pullable, just need to figure out if its any easier or not. To be honest it feels about the same for me still, i'm pretty confident that it will still be sitting in the V10 grade.

By Graham O.
Feb 21, 2017

I think it's a Dave Graham FA.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Feb 21, 2017

My understanding is that it was Luke Parady who got the FA.
By Brett Meyers
Apr 6, 2017

Dave did this first.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 17, 2017

Haha that ^ has been uttered so many time about so many routes.

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