All Locations > S Dakota > Custer SP > Cathedral Spires > Spire five

Blame It On the Boogie

Name: Blame It On the Boogie
Rating: 3.0

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British

Routes in Spire five

L › R R › L A › Z

	Beethoven's Fifth T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Blame It On the Boogie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Corner to the Sky T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Drinking Women, Chasing Whiskey T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R
	Goin' back to Indiana T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Kampsite T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Splinter direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Unknown ("Route 2" from Piana guide) T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
	Unkown Shaffer Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type:	Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches
FA:	Mark Rafferty & Ty Habbe, Oct. 2017, Ground up
Page Views:	1,784 total · 22/month
Shared By:	Mark Rafferty on Nov 7, 2017
Admins:	Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

A new moderate multi pitch in the Spires! Easy to follow and very straight forward with rappel stations on each pitch.

P1 (5.8): Start to the right of the fallen spire at the base of the wall. Continue up and right following series of cracks and flakes to a large ledge. Bolted Chain Anchor.

P2 (5.9): From the belay follow the micro seam with great gear and traverse left onto the face clipping a bolt. Head straight up into the right facing dihedral until you reach yet another great ledge. Continue up and finish through another right facing dihedral/flake. If you wish to bring large gear (#5) can easily protect the wide section. Otherwise with small gear right of the dihedral you can get by. Bolted Chain Anchor.

Decent: Rappel the route. Single 60m.

Location

Appoach: I find the easiest way to get to the base of the wall is to take the Spire 2 approach trail. Before you would enter into the 2/3 gully take a left and follow the climbers trail, traversing the base of spire 4/Eyetooth. Once It's the next biggest wall past Eyetooth on the Spire 5 mass.

The Route starts almost in the center of the North Face of Spire 5.