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Unsorted Routes:

Blades of Steel 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
Page Views: 899
Submitted By: Jordan Ramey on Jan 31, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Dan Schuerch cleaning draws after lowering. I'm n...

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  • Description 

    Not so well protected sport route. Bolts are good. Thin moves that will require a little thinking.


    On E. side of Lost Dome. Right ~50' of "For A Rocker" and "Made in the Shade" slightly uphill.


    Quickdraws, 3 bolts. 2 bolt anchor at top. Can rap down w/ a single 50m rope.

    Comments on Blades of Steel Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By jcomp
    From: OKC, OK
    Jun 14, 2007
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

    3 bolts. According to Steve the route originally had 1 bolt. Must of been a hell of a stout route! It is hard and thin with 3 bolts.
    By Adam Peters
    From: Salt Lake City, Utah
    Jul 1, 2007
    rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

    Yeah, this route description says that the route is well protected with the three bolts, however, that might be true if you stick clip the first two bolts as the description writer did. The route may not be runout per se, but it has a certain spicey quality to it.
    By MauryB
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 30, 2007
    rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

    Surprising that I almost decked, since it's so well protected.
    By Jordan Ramey
    From: Calgary, Alberta
    Jul 31, 2007

    I changed the description since the consensus is that the bolts are not adequately spaced.
    By Andy Chasteen
    From: Oklahoma City, OK
    Jan 28, 2008
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

    Crux comes after the first bolt, but once you get to the point of clipping the second bolt you are on fairly solid ground, albeit you might have a decent case of Elvis Leg going. Ground fall would probably never happen unless you have a dozing belayer. Hitting the tree, on the other hand, is a possibility.
    By Craig Childre
    From: Lubbock, Texas
    May 7, 2008

    It isn't a deck if you blow the 2nd bolt, but it will put you back down into the tree with your belayer. Watched my buddy deck into his finace this past weekend. Stick clipped the 2nd. Originally the crack had some copper heads beat into it, which only remnants remain.
    By steven charles
    Oct 31, 2008

    I dig this route. Fun slab moves, and gets the heart racing.
    By Tony Mayse
    Jan 16, 2012

    The tree that was once behind the route is now gone due to the fire last year (2011). The route did have copper heads protecting the upper moves, bolts were placed to replace the old heads and installed at pretty much the same height as the heads as not to change the nature of the climbing. Not a sport route.
    By Creed A
    From: Salt Lake City, UT
    Mar 1, 2014

    Clipping the second bolt is definitely exciting, but for me the crux was right above the first bolt. It was a very small safe fall.
    By Chase Webb
    From: Little Rock, AR
    Nov 29, 2014

    I'm a little over 200lbs and slipped off just below the second bolt and did not deck. I don't think anyone would deck unless they slipped while pulling out rope to clip.

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