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Chair Bivy Buttress
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Blades of Crass T,TR 
Chair Bivy  
Two Dead Ducks T 

Blades of Crass 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: ????
Season: All year but this is West Bluff so winter is grim.
Page Views: 31
Submitted By: Burt Lindquist on Jun 21, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: The contrived line of "Blades of Crass".

Description 

Squeeze job between Chair Bivy crack route to the left and 2 Dead Ducks to the right. Climbs kind of like "Orgasm Direct" or "Cul De Sac Exit" over at East Bluff. At the start work from right off of tilted block (start of 2DD's) across the face on really cool positive rails to the left to gain a series of really great large flat square cuts and a funky pistol grip flake for the right hand then up into very nicely positioned
side-pull\under-clings at a bulge where the feet are jacked as high as possible. Grab the jugs above the bulge then prepare to mantel up (with zero feet) in order to let go with the right hand and find and pull down on an awesome crimp....the crux! Climb the short blank section to the yop off the big horizontal making sure to not venture left or right at all. This climb is a eliminate for sure.

Location 

Squeeze job between Chair Bivy crack route to the left and 2 Dead Ducks to the right.

Protection 

Maybe the same very minimal gear placement found along the route "2 Dead Ducks" but at the actual crux move there is no gear option. This could be led if climber plans it out well in advance AKA a serious preview.


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