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Bladerunner 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 155'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: James & Franziska Garret '89
Season: spring thru fall
Page Views: 161
Submitted By: Kurt Howes on Jul 8, 2012

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Description 

Another apparently seldom climbed but well deserving LPC route, this somewhat difficult to find route has several cuxes and continuously intricate slab and thin seams making it feel like an 11.a Make your way up using both seams but eventually moving to the steeper seam on the left. The top is a bit confusing as a bolt appears as an alternate variation on the left. Either way it's fairly run out at the finish. Classic granite!

Location 

about 200 feet and 5 minute scramble above the southern most meadow. About 200 feet below Pika Paradise. Look for pins.

Protection 

double camelots to #1; one #2, runners and quick draws for 4 or 5 pitons. 1/4" button head bolted anchor at top with rap ring on webbing. Rap and mild down climb toward the west with 50 meter rope. Green webbing and rap rings located on a tree a bit below and 40 feet west of Bladerunner anchors might assist.


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By Kurt Howes
Jul 8, 2012

I haven't talked with anyone who has done this route and felt it needed an entry, and this is my first. Please let me know of more refined beta and description/history. As of July 2012 the anchor webbing is terrible and should certainly be replaced. I would add a third bolt to supplement the 1/4" button heads for the anchor, as it's a partly hanging belay. The book implies a walk off but the rap seems safer. I was shitting my pants at the runout to the anchors and would also add a bolt for the direct line up, even though the 35 foot whipper would be survivable. Instead of the direct finish I reached for the jugs and swung my left foot out as a sort of intermediate ending between going straight up or moving to the earlier bolt on the left. I highly recommend this route. It's actually in the "Camp Climbs" section of Wasatch guide and isn't on the Hyperform wall.
By James Garrett
Jul 8, 2012

Kurt asked me to comment further on this route. I repeated Bladerunner a number of times in the 90s when I used to go up to LPC probably as much as somebody like Shingo does these days! Well, Maybe not SO often!! The number of pitons I placed on the route and my affinity for the Harrison Ford movie of the same name prompted the naming of the route.

Of course, these pitons may be suspect today as well as the hand drilled 1/4" bolts. Back then, after free climbing it, I gave it a 5.10d rating as I hardly felt confident enough to give it a harder slab rating...I mean the Dorsal has never been changed from being a 5.10 climb so that is kind of where I was coming from??

Yes, the two bolt belay on top of this campsite crag and the protection bolts would be an excellent candidate for replacement. If so, It probably would get more traffic as it is super convenient for winding down the end of a big day on the longer routes. I don't think it is a dangerous route as is, but most climbers these days shudder at the thought of clipping a 1/4'er. It is certainly OK with me to install beefier replacements...hopefully in the same holes? or pull and patch is also a possibility.
If the pitons are removed, I doubt if the kind of pin scars that now enable such easy protection options on a route like Beckey's Wall would exist. I am open to suggestions.
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Jul 14, 2015

Not sure why this is under Hyperform as its directly under the QM wall? Tried this route several times years ago and always found it very challenging! Its definitely a worthy route.

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