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Blade Runner 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Mark Tarrant, Richard Wright, April, 2008
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 592
Submitted By: Mark Tarrant on Apr 13, 2008

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Description 

Climb the steep, north-facing, double overhanging arete and face. This climb really has terrific movement and position but unfortunately passes through some crumbly stone about 2/3 of the way up. Start by liebacking up a boulder that is separated from the main wall and then get established under the arete. Expect a section of .11- before reaching a ledge with a hand rail. Move left into a crack and shoot for a sharp fin left of the main arete. The finishing moves on this steep fin are powerful and brilliant. One more clip will get you to the anchor. Some medium length draws will help guide the rope, and you might want to skip the first clip for the redpoint.

It has four star movement on two star stone.

Location 

This ascends the obvious underside of the overhanging arete.

Protection 

8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.


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By Kevin Capps
From: Golden, CO
Nov 2, 2013
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

While the rock quality on the first half is not good, the crux up higher is wildly amazing.

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