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Lilly Bluff
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Blade Loafer 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Stan Wallace, 1979 (on gear)
Page Views: 1,363
Submitted By: Chuck Parks on May 19, 2008

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Blade Loafer- 10b.


Dixie Cragger's gives this route two stars, but I think the public disagrees. We found it covered with lovely, green algae. I don't think it sees much traffic.

Romp up the steep start with good jams and locks. Locate and admire the ergonomically superior three-finger pocket on the face. Grunt through the slippery, hopeless upper section of crack toward victory.


Toward the right end of Lilly Bluff. Look for a steep, bolted(!) hand crack that leads up through a slot/dihedral.


sport: 5 bolts, anchors out right
trad: standard rack, maybe a #4 Camalot C4 for the upper crack section? Be wary of cam placements in the crack, as parts of it are SLIPPERY.

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By jarthur
From: Westminster, CO
Mar 13, 2010

Really green algae? I've climbed this route many times when some of the other routes are occupied. A very unique climb with a fun overhanging lieback finish. I've never seen any vegetation on this route, just might have been a very wet year to find green algae on it.
By Jeff Edge
Aug 18, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Kelly Brown's guide lists this is 10c which seems about right but I mean it's one grade who cares anyway. Usually has a good bit of chalk on it whenever I pass by, some parts do stay pretty slick and green though (non-crucial parts) but that's just because it's in a wet area not because it isn't popular.
By Cassi Haggard
Nov 29, 2016

Climbed this weekend when we were doing all the 10s at Lily Bluff. We actually really liked the movement on this one. Very unique for a sport climb. Looked at the placements. It would be a scary trad lead.

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