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Bladdimir and the Ost T,S 
Duh, Arete T 
Hawk n Bladder T,S 
Minas Morgul T 
Tower One T 

Bladdimir and the Ost 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Arjun Heimsath and David Sampson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 38
Submitted By: arjunmh on Oct 30, 2013

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Description 

Start below the overhanging arete crest of the Minas Morgul tower. A single bolt helps protect the difficult opening moves and a nut helps protect the bulge move onto the crest of the arete. We tried to set this to go through the roof of the arete, but it was forced and MUCH harder than the rest of the climb. Once on the arete crest, stay on the crest using the vertical crack around to the right for gear. Have a 0.5-0.75 range cam ready for a hidden horizontal that will help protect moves to the first bolt. Climb through the still chossy ledge (we will work to clean this up better on our next ascent), past another bolt and get into the crimpy and overhanging crux of the climb, protected by bolts. Easier ground with horizontal and vertical crack placements takes you to the anchors.

Location 

Obvious arete of Minas Morgul tower, located by the bolts on the arete and the lower bolt helps orient you to the start.

Protection 

6 bolts plus small through medium cams with a single medium bolt for the lower bulge.


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By arjunmh
From: Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
Jan 31, 2014

Did this again last weekend and it is indeed a tricky and hard route. The crux was particularly scary for me (since I'd forgotten what it felt like!) because of how vertical/overhanging it is and how potentially sketchy the rock is. Not for the timid is how I'd describe it. The ideal would be to have 2 black aliens, but I ended up using a long runner and clipping one of the bolts from Hawk n Bladder to protect a particularly runout section. I will likely add a bolt there whenever I get back on this route to make it more "friendly" for others as the line itself is indeed compelling.

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