Black's Link Rock Climbing

Blacks Link crag is a boulder pile on steroids, essentially a jumble of giant blocks.  It has historically seen minimal traffic, even though the typical HK climber will have passed by it many times on the way to and from Black Crag.  A steep approach combined with the need for trad gear is enough to keep most people away.  Perched high on the south side of Mt. Nicholson, the crag has fantastic views, even from the base of the wall.  A few years ago, bolted anchors were added to all of the trad lines, some of which are accessible from the top without climbing.  The addition of these anchors, along with three new sport routes, has resulted in increased traffic.  That said, the crag is rarely crowded.  

Because of the complex shape of the formation, it is easy to hunt shade on warm days, or bask in the sun in what passes for HK winters.  Routes in the recess (Chasm Spasm, Feersum Endjinn, and Gullly Bully) are in shade much of the day.  It is frequently windy due to the location, making the recess quite pleasant even on warm days.

The majority of the trad lines weigh in at a 5.10 grade, and offer great opportunities to hone jamming skills – you will find everything from fingerlocks and handjams to chickenwings and chimneys.  Most of the cracks are overhanging, making it strenuous to place gear.  Hard moves off the deck are common as well.  If you blow a clip or gear pops down low, there is an excellent chance you will hit the ground.  Anchors for some routes can be reached by scrambling to the top, and can be top-roped – bring some long slings.  There are three thin and technical bolted lines as well.  

Bring a small rack of stoppers and cams; singles of each size are often sufficient.  Specific gear suggestions are noted in route descriptions.  And, if you are new to jamming, tape is your friend.