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Blackorette 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
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Page Views: 236
Submitted By: B-Mkll Mackall on Jun 7, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Description 

Stunning razor thin series of broken aretes. This gets 11b in the guidebook but feels soft for the grade.

Progress up a steep corner using a scattered crack system. Eventually transfer onto the prominent and intimidating black arete at around 2/3 height and layback (crux) up this arete and over the top to an easy juggy slab. Don't get sucked into the line of crimps on the yellow face to the right.

Location 

The obvious black arete on the rightmost side of the crag. The trail basically dumps you at the base.

Protection 

Bolts (7) to chain anchors. Be careful of the razor edge, as it has the potential to shred ropes in the case of a fall at the wrong spot.


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By Beau Skelton
From: Palm Desert, UT
May 21, 2015

I loved this climb! Potentially scary for your rope in one particular section(sharp part), but otherwise very enjoyable. Climb onto the the arete about half way up and ride that sucker!

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