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Fantasy Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aesthetica S 
Black and Tan T 
Blackhappy S 
Doce Doe T 
Erotica S 
Fantasy T 
Fantasy Face S 
Jet Cap S 
May the 4th be with you.  T 
Mowed out mama T 
Mr. Fantasy S 
New Fangled Dangle T 
Orgasmatron, The T 
Riddle S 
Stick, The S 
Tide, The T 
Two-Step Arete T 
Virgin Thing S 


YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Doug Reed
Page Views: 2,106
Submitted By: Chris Whisenhunt on Apr 30, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>


Same start as black and tan but traverse in from the right to the first bolt. Crimp your way through some heinously small holds with a few NRG lock-offs. Once you clip the third bolt the crux is done with however, there are still some moves for the next two bolts that will keep you thinking. After you clip the fifth bolt the route eases up a little until you hit the roof. I have seen many people fly off from above the last bolt. It's really not that hard. Full on beta spray is in the comments for it.



Bolted route to the left of Black & Tan corner.


9 bolts with a 2 bolt anchor at the top with rings. Lower down.

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By Chris Whisenhunt
From: Fayetteville, WV
Nov 23, 2014


I have seen numerous people whip off of the top of this climb. It's really not harder than 5.10 once you have the beta below.

After you clip the last bolt you can pull back under the roof and get a good lefthand hand jam rest in the horizontal. From here I switch around my hands, and reach up over the lip to a good horizontal and then match. Throw a left heel up and reach up to an incut left hand side pull. Turn your heel into a toe, stand up and hand foot match your right foot then pop over to a crimp nipple. Walk your feet over right and then cross up and right with your left hand to an incut jug. Jugs from there on up.
By James Couto
Jul 8, 2017

Bees on route around bolts 5/6!

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