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Blackface Arete 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
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Page Views: 52
Submitted By: Danger on Sep 11, 2014

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Description 

Starting from the warmup boulder, this climb is named after the dark face it's on.

Cruise big holds up to a crack, then move gradually up the arete(better than it looks) while counter balancing with the right foot

A sharp but good pocket sets you up to clip one anchor bolt - but you can't really say you've sent the climb until you've finished on top.

Location 

Dark side of the disco buttress, 2nd line from the right.

Protection 

Titanium (2016/17)


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By BrianWS
Jun 20, 2016

This is a very fun route, even if the upper portion is a bit of an eliminate - if you cross over from the face into the slab, you can skip some of the challenging-yet fun arête slapping and groping that leads to the anchors.
This was originally a gear lead, allegedly. After bolting, it has become a very popular warmup for folks working the 12s and 13s around the buttress.

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