REI Community
(2) Llama Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
100% Beef S 
American Nirvana S 
Blackened S 
Cloud Nine S 
Condor T 
Entering Relativity S 
Eye of the Beholder S 
Eye of the Beholder Finish S 
Harvester of Sorrow S 
Junkshow S 
Lightly Toasted S 
Livin Large S 
Llama Enlightenment S 
Llama Sutra S 
Metal Smith S 
Olive S 
Struggle Within (Start), The S 
Wannabe Llamas S 
When Llamas Need Protection T 


YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 2,888
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on May 2, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (69)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: blackened

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


A fun and extremely well protected climb on excellent rock.

Start out on steep ground just right of Condor. A low bolt is followed by some awkward moves up to and over a bulge. After the bulge traverse right following a finger crack with thin feet. Eventually step back left onto the face and finish on steep pockets in the clean white face.


This climb is located in an area just North of the Phoenix Wall. Approach by hiking to Phoenix and traverse back right along the base of the cliff passing 100% Beef, a 5.13 project and Condor (all in the Watt's guide). Blackened is the first bolt line right of the parallel cracks of Condor, it climbs a steep white face with closely spaced bolts.



Photos of Blackened Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Cool climb
Cool climb
Rock Climbing Photo: Blackened
Rock Climbing Photo: light through the crack on Blackened
light through the crack on Blackened

Comments on Blackened Add Comment
Show which comments
By bryans
Jun 21, 2006
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

This climb can only be 11d if you do the contrived version of staying directly on the bolt line without taking advantage of the obvious stems and rests out right. There is no way it's 11d if you follow the path of least resistance to the chains. All the same, sweet climb.
By Peter Franzen
General Admin
From: Phoenix, AZ
Sep 24, 2006
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Fantastic climb. The grade may be a bit off compared to other .11ds at Smith but it's still loads of fun.
By Karsten Duncan
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 9, 2007

One of the best of the newer climbs at smith.
By ktaylor
From: Bay Area, CA
May 25, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Fun route! A bit sharp. There is another fun route of similar grade, but much different style, to the left of 100% Beef.
By Toby Butterfield
From: Portland, OR
Sep 12, 2011

If you stay to the right, then you're climbing "Lightly Toasted," a 5.11b. If you stay to the left on the face, then you're on Blackened, the 5.11d described here... hence the contrivance, since the same boltline is used to protect both routes.
By JGHarrison harrison
From: Reno, NV
Oct 30, 2011

Really fun line, took some figuring for me to work out the beta. Very sharp. If you are on a road trip save it for the last day.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About