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Bonas Defeat
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A Licheny Trick (original name unkown) T 
Blackened Groove (original name unknown) T 

Blackened Groove (original name unknown) 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 350'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 180
Submitted By: McLovin on Sep 4, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Bonas Defeat

Description 

This route's start is fairly close to the river bed, it will likely be one of the first climbs you come to as you come out of the river. One bolt is visible from the start. If you are standing in the river bed looking at the face there is only one obvious blackened groove on the Bonas Defeat wall which this route follows. On the left middle of the wall.

A handful of cams are useful, in particular I think a green or blue alien protects a few dirty moderate moves before the first bolt. This is a mixed route meaning you will need a rack but there are numerous bolts to clip. The rusty bolts could certainly use replacing and might be worth backing up.

It should be noted that the bolts and steel bieners on this route are very old, the gates have been permanently rusted closed and might rust through altogether in the near future.

Location 

middle left side of the wall

Protection 

manky ass old bolts 1980s is that you calling?


Comments on Blackened Groove (original name unknown) Add Comment
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By Mark O'Neal
From: Nicholson, GA
Oct 22, 2016
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I thought this route would be more NC slab climbing but it's really more of a face climb than a friction climb. Generally lots of holds to choose from and well protected by NC standards. Bolts are old but not too bad (certainly the whole route could use rebolting though)


P1 - Gear and bolts to 2 bolt belay with rap anchors on a nice ledge - 5.7 (~100 ft)

P2 - Bolts to a 2 bolt belay with manky anchors on a ledge not quite as comfy as it looked - 5.8 (~80 ft)

P3 (crux) - Gear off the belay to several reasonably spaced bolts protecting the crux at a bulge. The crux is balancy but well protected by a bolt. 2 bolt belay with manky anchors at a ledge above the crux - 5.8+ (~50 ft)

P4 - Gear and bolts to a 2 bolt belay with manky anchors. The moves off the belay at the start are easier than they look. Some runouts near the top. - 5.7 (~130 ft)

From the top of P4 either rap the route (yuck) or lead up another 25 feet of unprotected easy slab into the forest at the top of the cliff and walk off from there.

P3 & P4 can be combined but I think it's better to break it up into 2 pitches. That way you should be able to run P4 all the way to the trees instead of having to stop and belay at the last anchor