Blackchurch Main Cliff Rock Climbing
The towering cliff behind the photogenic Blackchurch Rock is an acquired taste. While some of the routes do involve some climbing on solid rock, this is inevitably interspersed with some good, old-fashioned XS climbing.
Apart from the far left of the cliff, the routes here are non-tidal, perhaps a good warm-up while waiting to access Blackchurch Rock? Also North facing, so can get cold, but generally doesn't get as greasy as the stack. Rarely busy: you will most likely have the entire cliff to yourself.
From the end of the path down to Mill Mouth, shun the sea stack in front of you and turn right to the looming, vegetated cliff.
Climbing Season For the South West area.
Weather station 5.7 miles from here
2 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Blackchurch Main Cliff
The Archtempter 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
: United Kingdom
: ... : Blackchurch Main Cliff
1) 5b, 26m. Pass a low bulge, peg, and continue to another bulge at 12m. Move around the bulge and climb the corner above past a peg to two more pegs. Continue up the corner passing a useful large cam-notch to a stance and belay where the corner lies back. Old pegs, nut and large cams.2) 5a, 22m. The corner now starts to overhang but is well protected with large cams and nuts. A recent rockfall has left some loose material just before the top. ...[more] Browse More Classics in International