|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 120'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.14c French: 8c+ Ewbanks: 34 UIAA: XI- ZA: 35 British: E9 7b [details]|
|FA:||FA Matthias Holladay, FFA Ethan Pringle|
|Submitted By:||Matthias Holladay on Oct 31, 2007|
|Comments on Blackbeard's Tears||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
Feb 23, 2015
|New titanium glue-in anchors at the top of the 5.10+/5.11- section.|
By Benjamin F
From: Arcata, CA
Sep 28, 2015
|Nic Sabo one hung the second pitch, and thinks it goes at around 13c. This thing is getting freed reeeeal soon!|
By Evan Wisheropp
Oct 5, 2015
|There are some excellent ones in California Climber alongside your commentary. If you didn't get your copy yet, I'll send you one (PM me your address). I would post photos if I had any of my own without others' copyright.|
By Sic Nabo
Sep 23, 2016
|Ethan Pringle made the first free ascent of this beast, all the way to the top. He proposed a grade of 14c. Although he used hand-jammies for the crux, so it's really like the 5th aid ascent or something....|
By Matthias Holladay
From: Durango, Colorado
Sep 23, 2016
Finally! So the FFA of Blackbeard's Tears! Wow.
Brilliant Work, Ethan!
Blackbeard’s Tears, ahh... its fissure, its white-noise cacophony of wind, and wave-shore action...
This is that rare kind of cliff that has the ability to intrinsically "gift us" an awesome flow experience...
Perhaps you know this; it's the sharing of the rope, and the willing desire to seek out the uncertainty of new routes; it's that fabulous feeling of fun, totally being there in the moment; it's loving that immediacy of reality on the rock as we happily interpret it; and it's those pleasurable fun-times we have here that many of us use as a standard by which we rank similar experiences.
Listen!...a steep gymnastic path of vertigo-fantastic positioning is there waiting for you! and likely in its solitude...
Years ago, Blackbeard's Tears gave its unique vertical journey to me with no distractions in its environs, and this allowed me to savor the climb, the movement over land, feeling real nice kinesthetic sensations as I went upward. With almost-automatic responses, I answered its challenging demands with desire, and am now similarly contented again, chuckling it's finally been freed!