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Black Widow 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 165'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Irby, P and Hickok, J
New Route: Yes
Season: Shady in the summer, Avoid in winter
Page Views: 118
Submitted By: J. Hickok on Mar 5, 2012

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Paul Irby ascending the corner on the FA.

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This long left facing corner would probably clean up with regular ascents, but may be a little sugary.

The crux climbing comes in the top third of the route where, if I remember correctly, the sustained corner climbing is 1 to 1.5" in size.

There is a protection bolt a third of the way up the route, and another one was added later. Not sure where.

Sorry about the vagueness, but I wanted to post the route for documentation and to offer the info up to people looking at M.P..

Not sure of length, but bring two ropes to be sure.

Location 

Hike up Day Canyon passing the Raptor and Bootleg Towers. Round the corner where the canyon bends left and continues in a westerly direction. I think you pass below Aerobicide, and then hump up the hill on the left (shady) side of the canyon. This route is long left facing corner with some wider flared stuff halfway up. A couple minutes up the wall from Another Fine Day.

See beta photos, and again I'm pretty sure I remember this being a little up the canyon from Aerobicide, but I'm not 100% sure. Photo below shows approximate location of route right near Another Fine Day.

Rock Climbing Photo: Overview of route location right near Another Fine...
Overview of route location right near Another Fine Day in Day Canyon.

Protection 

Heavier on 0.5" to 1.5", but I can't remember. Mix of larger gear possible. At least one quickdraw for one protection bolt. Probably want to bring a diverse rack or consult P. Irby in Moab.


Photos of Black Widow Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Displays the corner from bottom to top.
BETA PHOTO: Displays the corner from bottom to top.

Comments on Black Widow Add Comment
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By Paul Irby
From: moab, ut
Mar 8, 2012

I remember a standard desert rack with extra thin finger pieces, extra 1.5" pieces, and one old style 5 camalot. I went back and added a bolt at a poorly protected spot so now there are two. It's 165' and the rating is probably .12-. Also this was some years ago and my memory is not all that trustworthy.

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