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Black Widow 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R [details]
FA: Alan Bartlett, Bruce Bossman, 1980
Season: summer
Page Views: 915
Submitted By: rhyang on Aug 25, 2011

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On lead Pitch 2

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Pitch 1 (5.7, 100'): Knobs and cracks to gear belay.

Pitch 2 (5.9R, 100'): Knobs past two bolts and a piton. Difficulty eases off after the second bolt, but the pro gets scarce -- small cams and tricams in pockets. Belay at bolts with rap rings.

Location 

Starts about a hundred yards or so left of Golfers Route. The second pitch appears as a black streak.

Descend by rappel -- either single 60m rope to rap station off to the right (anchor for Get Sick [5.11a], make sure nobody is on it before throwing ropes) or two 60m ropes will get you to the ground.

Protection 

Nuts and cams to 3"; draws and small cams & tricams for second pitch.


Photos of Black Widow Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Traversing right at top of crack toward large ledg...
Traversing right at top of crack toward large ledg...
Rock Climbing Photo: Higher up the crack on the first pitch
Higher up the crack on the first pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing on knobs next to the crack
Climbing on knobs next to the crack
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up second pitch
BETA PHOTO: Looking up second pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Hal on first pitch
Hal on first pitch

Comments on Black Widow Add Comment
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By Robert Hall
Administrator
From: North Conway, NH
Aug 26, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R

The opening moves of P2 seemed to be the crux...BEFORE the 1st bolt; hence the "R".

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