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Black Widow 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 230'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Paul Dovydaitis, Dave Aubrey
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 45
Submitted By: Paul Dovydaitis on Oct 30, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Black Widow seen from below on the right, and Crac...

Description 

Excellent climbing up the obvious corner on the across from Crack Me Up wall. The start is marked by a section of tall grass.

Pitch 1: Follow the corner up for roughly 115 feet until you reach a small slab/ledge. There is gear on the right wall in an undercling crack (small - medium cams!). This is pretty much a hanging belay although with some effort you can get a good stance on the slab.

Pitch 2: Continue following the corner another 115 feet. Crux is the black/white stained section half way up the pitch. Towards the top you will come to an area with some marginal gear followed by a grassy topout. Resist the urge to create a belay - it's not great gear, it's really awkward, and there is great gear for an anchor at the top.

Generally excellent climbing on solid holds, sustained.

Location 

Immediately on your right after coming up through the small cave. Across from Crack Me Up Wall.

Protection 

Standard rack is adequate. Save at least two small/medium size cams for the first belay. Good gear all the way up, save for the grassy topout.


Photos of Black Widow Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: First ascent of Black Widow.  First pitch not visi...
First ascent of Black Widow. First pitch not visi...

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