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Black Wave Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Woman Scorned S 
Black Wave S 
Controlled Burn S 
Fear Factor S 
Forest Management S 
Slab Management S 
Smoked Crackers T 

Black Wave 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Head Crew
Page Views: 66
Submitted By: Orphaned on Mar 19, 2006

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Description 

Black Wave is probably the most obvious route on the wall and takes the black streak just right of A Woman Scorned. Belay at a cool hole with a bolt and solve the low-down crux (11a) with layaways and edges to a second milder face crux ending at good holds. The closely-bolted upper wall eases on still excellent climbing to a brief rest at the break. The moderate (5.9) upper wall continues to reward.

This is another outstanding climb that is one of the best easy 5.11 routes at the Head. It is probably not as classic as some others (e.g. Dave's Dilemma) but is still close to four stars.

Protection 

14-16 draws.


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By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Nov 28, 2016

It is important to note that the top anchors for his route are Metolius Rap Anchors, perfectly suitable for rappelling or lowering. They look like overgrown regular bolt hangers and have a radius similar to a carabiner. I recently removed two taped biners from the anchor that would utterly snarl a rope.