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Black Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ajax T 
Birdie S 
Black September T 
Bliss T 
Bliss Direct T 
Blowups Happen T 
Bourbon Street T 
Can't Stop the Dance T 
Cannibal Gully T 
Centerfold T 
Don't Try This At Home S 
Empty Overgo T 
Empty Sky Direct T 
Finger Licker T,TR 
Firecracker T 
Full Moon T 
Full Tilt T 
Headstone T 
Hungover Hangover T 
Indian Summer T 
Inside Out  T 
Labyrinth T 
Lightning Bolt Roof T 
Mojito Run T 
Mr. Clean T 
New Fascination T 
New Moon T 
Next T,S 
No Stems No Seeds T 
On Ramp T 
One Hand Clapping T 
Pinball Junkie T,S 
Primer T 
Rat Ramp S 
Rat's Tooth T 
Rated X T 
Rythym Killer S 
Sky Pilot T 
Skywalker T 
Slipstream T 
Space Invaders S 
Space Modulator T 
Summer Breeze S 
Super Slab T 
There Goes The Neighborhood T 
Torture Chamber S 
Touch A Cannibal T 
Touch and Go T 
Yellow Zonker T 

Black Wall Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 39.3256, -120.3123 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 48,457
Administrators: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Paul Rezucha on Aug 4, 2005
Forecast:
This Afternoon

78° | 49°
Saturday

82° | 50°
Sunday

80° | 52°
Monday

74° | 51°
Tuesday

73° | 49°
Wednesday

75° | 48°
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Mark Hudon on "Full Tilt", 5.11a, 1979. ...

  • Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closure at Black Wall-Lifted 2016 MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Black Wall is the largest rock formation in the Donner Summit area. The large east facing wall is the first rock formation you encounter on the right as you drive up from Donner Lake. Many routes are 3 or 4 pitches in length to a height of 400-600 feet. Although most of the routes are trad requiring a good solid standard rack, there does exist some sport routes also. To descend, walk off the left side (west) and follow trail down and eventually cut back left over a ridge to gain access to bottom of cliffs.

    Getting There 

    Driving up from Donner Lake, Black Wall is the first rock formation you come to on the right side sitting high above the road. If you are driving from the west, you would exit at the Soda Springs/Donner Pass Road exit off of I-80. Continue on Donner Pass Road east for several miles to reach to the Donner Summit area. You will pass many climbing formations as you drive down the hill. Black Wall will be the very last one on the left side. There is a small parking pull off area. There are two ways to approach the cliffs. For climbs on the left side, follow a small trail that begins up a little from the parking area. The trail meanders up and eventually you just climb boulder to boulder to get through the boulder field heading straight up to the cliffs. To gain the right side, it is easier to follow a small trail just left of a small creek. Follow trail and creek bed to a point where the trail turns left to the base of the wall. Approach is about 10-15 minutes if you are acclimated to the higher 7000' altitude. If you are arriving from the Bay area, expect the approach to be a little tiring! Beautiful rock in a beautiful setting!

    Climbing Season



    Weather station 2.9 miles from here

    49 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',28],['2 Stars',13],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',1],['5.7',2],['5.8',3],['5.9',5],['5.10',19],['5.11',17],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in Black Wall

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Black Wall:
    Labyrinth   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 200'   
    Rated X   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
    Black September   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   
    Primer   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
    Touch and Go   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 80'   
    One Hand Clapping   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   
    Touch A Cannibal   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
    Hungover Hangover   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
    Rat's Tooth   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
    Firecracker   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
    Bourbon Street   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
    New Fascination   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   
    New Moon   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
    Bliss   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
    Summer Breeze   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
    Finger Licker   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   
    There Goes The Neighborhood   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   
    Headstone   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 30'   
    Full Moon   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
    Bliss Direct   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Black Wall

    Featured Route For Black Wall
    Rock Climbing Photo: Photo shows belays with the optional belay near th...

    One Hand Clapping 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  California : Lake Tahoe : ... : Black Wall
    One Hand Clapping starts on a ledge on the main Black Wall face below an obvious tall, twin crack system slanting right. Climb the twin cracks requiring good hand jamming techniques (5.8) and continue up to a belay with bolted anchors. Climb the steep, thin crack above to a slab. Continue up and left (a little runout here) and continue up and left through a steep, weird, intimidating, slanting left flaring corner. Getting around the end of the corner, over the bulge, and onto the face is the...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

    Photos of Black Wall Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Peregrine falcon @top of P2.  Her chicks were real...
    Peregrine falcon @top of P2. Her chicks were real...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Birdie,  an old school classic.  11b.  Fun sport r...
    Birdie, an old school classic. 11b. Fun sport r...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Met this Guy today and tried to e-mail this pic to...
    Met this Guy today and tried to e-mail this pic to...

    Comments on Black Wall Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Alex Mead
    Apr 20, 2017
    CONDITION REPORT 
    Any body been to the Black Wall recently? I hear Donner Summit Road is open, but how is the wall? Wet or dry? Accessible through snow?
    By JVB Project
    From: Berkeley CA
    Jun 25, 2017
    CONDITION REPORT 
    The second repel anchor from the top only has one loose bolt remaining. Somebody ran a backup dynamic rope to the upper anchors in case the bolt fails. Its sketchy. The backup rope can be seen from the road.

    IMO The entire band of granite is crap rock. The one bolt remaining needs to be removed and a new anchor needs to be installed either just below, in the adjacent band, or 30m down from the top.

    Be safe.

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